Constable Albert Baker

This is the fourth exercise book by Albert Baker and stands apart from the others as an account of Albert’s time in the Dover Borough Police Force.  Page numbers from the notebook are included in square brackets.  Some quotation marks are have been interpreted as parentheses, and paragraphs have been added for easier reading; in addition single quotation marks have been added to distinguish speech where the original lacked them.

[page I]

Dedicated to my three children Gilbert Cecil, Dorothea Lydia Tapley and Albert Edward

This book is really meant as a review of the Dover Borough Police as I knew it up to 1920 and before the KCC [Kent County Council] absorbed it with all Boroughs and Cities in Kent.

My father, George Baker, a native of Street, Nr Glastonbury, Somerset, enlisted at Wells, Somerset for the Crimea War or Mutiny, or one of many Wars going on but as he was too young and did not look strong and healthy, he was sent Via the Cape (as there was no Suez Canal) to China and after about four months landed there; there had been “Cholera” aboard on the voyage and the number to land was greatly reduced by it.  Soon they were marching towards Canton and he was at the taking of Canton and Taku Forts in 1857 and was the only man in Dover to wear a medal for it.  When the regiment returned he met my mother in Dover, Louisa Read, a Dovorian, whose mother’s maiden name was Greenward, and later they were married.

Then the regiment was ordered to India, and my mother being on the strength of the regiment went also, the same route Via the Cape.  It was a very bad passage out, and many of the soldiers wives were in Sick Bay.  They were at one time battened down below hatches owing to storms.

My father had enlisted in the “Pompadours” or the Lilywhites”, Lancashire Fusiliers his elder brother had also enlisted and was in one of the above mentioned regiments but I don’t know if that is the right order, or Vice-Versa.  Anyway his brother claimed him to his regiment and they marched together up country in India, the women being conveyed on Bullock Carts.  In the hot season they could not get away to the hills and my mother had sunstroke, she was to be invalided home, so father as his period of service was near its end requested his discharge and would not consider extending his service as he had arranged to do.  They were both returned home and father got his discharge and came to Dover. [page II]

His first task was to get a house and then employment.  The Upper and Lower Lodges of Victoria Park were empty so he went to see the owner Mr Sheriker Finnis who rather wanted him to take the Lower Lodge but father wanted and had the Upper Lodge.  He was told about a job in the Police Force and applied for and got it.  I think he said his wages were £1 per week less a halfpenny owing to stoppages for superannuation.  Mr Finnis was glad as he said now a PC was there it would safeguard the property, as he owned most of it and he would charge father 1/- [a shilling] per year rent, and when he went to pay it, it was always handed back and a sovereign with it.  He was appointed on Probation 24th April 1866 and superannuated 28th June 1892.  I was appointed on Probation 18th December 1900, Superannuated 31st January 1928.

Of course the Lodge at that time had no sewage or water services, father had to open a man-hole cover near the front door of No1 Victoria Park and draw two or three buckets of water from a tap at the time.  There was no cesspool, only a pit that would be emptied at night at intervals  I remember one night the men must have got drunk, father was on duty, when they started to take the cart away the tailboard fell out and they were there for hours clearing up before broad daylight.  Later on water was laid on and drainage and we were charged 2/- per week as it had cost such a lot to make the connections.  I think it was paid through Stilwell and Harby.  Father always said “Don’t join the Police, you would be too quick tempered”, and said the injuries he had received in Bridge Street from Charlton Roughs when making an arrest of one of their number was at the bottom of his trouble.  He was always more or less in pain and died of Cancer of the Stomach [page III] 16th July 1898, after over 32 years tenancy.

Almost before he was out of the house Major De Moleyns from No 9 called and told mother the Park Committee had given him a distasteful job, it was to tell her they wanted vacant possession of the Lodge in six weeks as it was a police house and two policemen were after it.  As Mr Finnis was dead there was no appeal to him, the committee apparently running the place.  It never was, or has been a Police House.  I went and saw the Mayor also Mr Stilwell who seemed the one most concerned and told them I would at the first opportunity make application to join the Force, but they would not hear of it, or consider my appeal, it seemed to mother to be the end of things to lose father and get turned out.  Anyway, she had to go and Groombridge moved in, I am in a way sorry: but they did not seem to have the best of Health and neither made old bones.

Some years later in Cannon St I met Mr Harby and Mr Hugh Leney (what he had to do with it I don’t know) they stopped me and said ‘Hello, Baker, we were wanting to see you.  The little cottage at the Park is empty and it would suit you and your wife.  What about it, you lived there quite a long time.’  I was in uniform and how to keep my temper I didn’t know.  ‘Come Come’ said one of them ‘we thought you would jump at it.’  I replied:- ‘No Sir, you turned my mother out but you won’t turn my wife out.’  They seemed flabbergasted and said “very well” and hurried off.  I thought perhaps they would get at me somehow but perhaps they thought I was right.

In March 1900 I made application to join the Force, two candidates being required.  I spoke to a Mr Bond (later a brother-in-law) who at that time was I believe thinking of joining the Metropolitan Police, and we both make [sic] application.  There were many [page IV] applicants, I was in the short list of six interviewed the second time then Bond, Turner, Dane and Sutton, (four instead of two were appointed) and I thought that’s it.  Sutton was a very big ungainly but powerful man, he soon got reprimanded as it was known instead of going to bed to rest he was spending all his time in the U Farm[?] Greyhound and after about seven or eight months he was got rid of.  I knew nothing about it but met Mr Knott, Inspector, in the street.  I think it was the first time ever I spoke to him.  He stopped me and said: ‘Are you still desirous of joining the Police’, and I told him I thought my employer, A Leney, to whom I had to apply for a character and who had tried to put me off from applying (saying I suited them admirably and they hoped I would think it over, but gave me the character) had had something to do with me being passed over.  He said never mind that now, you are helping keep your mother and should have filled one of these vacancies.  If you care to be at the Town Hall at 2.0pm Watch Committee and then pass the Doctor you will have the position.

I never told Leneys, got all I could out of cellars and despatched them to the loading floor for the afternoon and when I went to dinner changed and dodged my way so as not to be seen by any of Leney’s employees to the Town Hall, went before the Committee and was appointed subject to medical examination.  I was taken by Sergeant Lockwood to Dr Ormoby, Police Surgeon, Effingham Crescent and passed as fit.  When I got back to the Police Station there stood Mr J Saunders, Superintendent leaning on his stick.  I admit I felt a bit over-awed at the way he looked at me, I expect he thought what a change after Sutton, and then he said Well: I’ll make a man of you if you don’t make a fool [page V] of yourself.  He asked when I could make a start and I said I should like to be fair to Leneys and give a full weeks notice and help them with the xmas rush although most of the Ales were already in their various cellars.  He said report here after seeing Mr Leney.

I went home and changed and got back somewhere about four o’clock; when I showed up in the brewery Mr Marsh the Foreman was furious, he had sent for me, and got no answer twice, what was I thinking about.  I should be sacked for it etc etc he would let Mr Alfred know I was back.  I told him I was handing in my notice.  Whatever for he said, and I told him I wanted to see Mr Alfred as soon as possible, within a minute or so I was sent for to Castle Street Offices.  There was Alfred, Hugh and Frank to hold the enquiry.  When asked to explain the matter, I tendered my notice, that rather nettled them until I told them I had joined the Police, then they congratulated me and said why didn’t you let us know we could have made arrangements for you to have time off, and I reminded them I did that before and was not successful.  They said if I would get as much of the Xmas beers out as possible, they would not hold me after that week so that I could be free as soon as possible, also they would like an extra thorough stocktaking for the benefit of my successor, which I did the following Saturday afternoon to bring everything up close.

I called and told the Sergeant at the station and I was told when to attend to get my clothes.  I had to go to Jarrets to get fixed up, but it was a most tricky job as Sutton was twice as big as me, I could do nothing with his clothes, he had an extra big belt so I was served out with a very old one [page VI] that someone had apparently had had all their service, the metal all brass “no plating on it” and the leather dull and chipped.  For night duty I had to fit the clothes, not them fit me and the helmet I had to pack with paper folded four or five times to keep it off my ears, but trousers were the trouble as all the reasonably sized ones had been shared out between the four recruits in March.  I went down to the secondhand shop in Snargate St that sold ex-Metropolitan Police Trousers at 2/- per pair and bought my own trousers.  What a job getting rigged up for duty that night, I started on the job early and got Mum to pleat the back in folds till I could get the belt round, then the job was to pull my lamp to the front owing to the pleats and get my truncheon out of, or into, my tail pocket, it was bad enough to do it if the clothes fitted but as I was it was almost impossible.  The first time on parade my pocket had to be found for me and it was a nuisance for a very long time, especially in the Summer as topcoats had to be worn at night, no matter how hot the weather.

I was shown round two or three beats a night, and by the time came to leave at 6am I was done up as each man showing me round had to take me to every nook and corner which did not please them, even though I told them I knew all the places.  About the third evening I was with PC Frank Company in Priory Road as the Pubs were turning out.  He had occasion to speak to three young chaps who were drunk, one of them with a thick piece, or stalk, of seaweed.  He struck at [page VII] Company and in a tussle Company fell or was knocked down.  As I thought the prisoner whom I had arrested would be rescued I ran him to the Police Station and luckily got him in the door, the man who was supposed to be standing there arriving from inside at that moment.  I handed prisoner over and went out and met Company hobbling along, the other two men had gone.  I don’t remember what happened to them but I had to attend Court in my Fred Karno’s [Circus] uniform, to my disgust.

Another night I was with George Finch to be shown round what was known as No 4 (lower part of Waterloo Crescent from the Grosvenor [?] Gardens or Monument to North Pier) we had to be on Commercial Quay at 11.0 pm “turn out time” and remain till things got quiet, it was always a nuisance with sailors and troops and women seldom a night without trouble and frequently 7-8 policemen there, as well as military police.  When we got back to the Esplanade Hotel, Mr Cessford, Proprietor was outside and asked if we would take any refreshment.  George did not reply so I said “Yes” George turned on me and said you must not drink on duty and sent me to try the Wharfingers Office and other places, when I returned Mr Cessford was waiting with a drink for me, George had had his and was on the Sea Front.  We went down the North Pier and he lit up his pipe and I a cigarette, he told me I was not allowed to smoke on duty so I drew it lightly and on getting to the opening near the Monument, pinched the end out as I could see Inspector Nash at Page’s corner near Harts Furniture shop, standing in the doorway.  George said I was mistaken and we started to go to the top of Snargate Street.  As we got to the Monument he then saw it was Inspector Nash (Johnny we all called him) and knocked his pipe on the railings [page VIII] causing sparks to fly all over the place.  When we met, George said ‘All right Sir’ and I followed suit.  He replied ‘All Right, but there’s no need to make fireworks of it, is there’.  Some spoke hardly of Johnny but I had no cause to, if you did as he told you, you could not be very far wrong, in fact I liked him, like others he had his funny little ways but haven’t we all.  I always said “If you can’t please ‘em, don’t tease ‘em”.  He was about 1903 killed in assisting to launch the lifeboat from North Wall way.

It was usual for a recruit to have months of night duty, anything over three months according as to how they were shaping, but I was out for Evening and Day duty at about nine weeks.  I did not feel self-conscious or strange at all having been more or less a member of the force all my life.

Conditions of service then were: Eight hours of continuous duty seven days a week, Five days Annual Leave and one day on leave a month “to be drawn for” making it possible to draw the first day of January and the last day of February, and so if on night duty doing about 60 days, going on in the dark, coming off in the dark and going to bed and getting up in the dark.  It was the rule to do eight weeks night to four weeks day, the night period to include Evening Duty one week 6pm-2am.  I don’t know any man that liked night duty except myself, I revelled in it but must admit sometimes in the bitter cold I would have liked to be in bed, it seemed that you had got it all and no one to share it, fingers numb as you held your food to eat as you walked and tired arms with trying to get your tea bottle warm over a street lamp.  One place I tried was standing on a short pillar of the wall of New St James [page IX] Church, next to Harold Cottage, but I also used to try and warm it at a banked fire at a Nursery and sometimes at a bakehouse.  It was arranged where a man’s beat touched the station that he would carry another mans can to him after warming it up at the station but it was never a success with only one small gas ring and so many wanting to use it, by the time the man received it, it was almost cold.  We had a can advertised at 2/9 each to light up and leave in a doorway, it burned methylated spirit and had two tubes for the heat to pass through, frequently you found it cold, the wind having blown it out, it was not a success. 

We started pay at 24/4 ½ clear a week, after 18 months “if service satisfactory” 26/9 ¾, another 18 months then 29/8 ¾ then five years “to get 8 years service” to get top price 31/2 ½ per week.  Later there came a scheme to increase our pay, after I think 15 years it was called Badge Money and we wore a silver chevron “inverted” on the sleeve that gave us either 1d or 2d per day, I cannot be sure which, then at 22 years another badge and another 1d or 2d, that was as far as a constable could get.

On pay day “usually a Wednesday” I or someone else would be handed 1/- or 1/6 and told to get the equivalent in farthings and would go to small sweet shops, perhaps several before we could get enough so that the pay could be handed out correct.  We paid a small sum for old clothes instead of handing them in, and that would be stopped at so much a week, we also received 1/- per week boot money paid quarterly.  There was one tour of duty which was imposition, but as soon as N. K. Knott was Chief he altered it.  A man changing from day to night duty would parade for [page X] night duty the same night till 4am.  It was altered so that a man coming off at 2.0 pm on Sunday did not parade again till 10.0pm Monday.  There was no time off for Court and after being night duty would be at the station at 10:45am and perhaps remain nearly all day over a simple case because other cases were more important and then night duty again with hardly any sleep, and all meals upset.  No overtime and none expected .  The old policeman might grumble but if he was on a job where he could not finish it up in time, he had a certain amount of pride and would resent having to hand over to someone else.  The constable was always at a disadvantage with their Sergeant especially at night, then he had what was called a beat-card for the ground allotted to it and the time allowed to work it, all on foot, and perhaps quite a lot of unoccupied premises, schools, churches etc that had to be frequently visited, and always on the first and last round of the beat so as to take over correct and hand over correct, or at least as correct as you could.

Fancy, from the Engineer PH to the Borough Boundary beyond the Hare and Hounds, to Tapley Farms Elms Vale Road, Halfway round Fan Hedge, Winchelsea, all Maxton and Clarendon Street and Place every 50 minutes.  You would have to hurry to go to the end and back without stopping for anything.  I was always a quick walker and one night after seeing the Orange Tree, Crown and Sceptre and Grapes PH out I arrived back at the Engineer PH at 11:20pm.  I am telling you this to show how a Sergeant could harass a man for nothing and threaten to report him for failing to touch a certain part [page XI] of his beat in the time allotted without some reasonable excuse.  When I got back there was the most detested Sergeant on the Force (who was in charge of the upper section), waiting for me.  I reported “All Right, Sergt”, then he flew all to pieces.  ‘Where have you been, What time was you here last.’  I was very surprised to see him as if he had been doing as he should, to see all the upper section men before midnight so as to give all men a chance to see their unoccupied places he should have been somewhere in Buckland so by neglecting them he was throwing them all out of their working, as some of their beats laid wide from the main, on purpose to harass me.  I had never given him or any other Sergt cause to complain for being slow.  I told him I had not been there since I came on, and had seen the PHs out on my way back.  He stormed, called for my beat-card, pointed out I was allowed 50 minutes.  I told him, and he knew, that was impossible even if I ran, then he went off muttering loudly about 50 minutes, that done it.  I went up round Clarendon to the Horse Trough, Elms Vale Road back to Winchelsea and neglected to go out further so as to be back at the 50 minutes.  I did not see him till I turned the corner of the Engineer and there he stood.  I reported to him and cleared out but again never went beyond the Horse Trough, it was impossible.  I kept my light off the houses and sidled down on the left hand side keeping in the shadow as much as possible but he was not waiting there for me.  Then the thought came, suppose he has gone to Maxton or Elms Vale to wait, he seems bent on having me.  I waited under the light for about 5 minutes then started up Malvern Hill, but after a few steps returned and saw [page XII] him come from Clarendon Road under the lamp next to Priory Bridge and go towards the town.

Years later after he had retired and was caretaker of the empty Dover Castle Hotel, Clarence Street, I had occasion to call the attention of the Landlord of the Rose and Crown PH to the fact that it was after time and told him to clear his house immediately.  He was surprised and said so, I said if he did not comply at once I should add that to a report I was going to submit to the C. C.  About the last to leave was the former Sergt who had been a teetotaller for the latter part of his service.  He gave me a nice pleasant sneer and cleared off.  I told George Finch my Sergt all about it and he said:- ‘Wait and see what happens tomorrow.  I’ll be here myself so as, if necessary to corroborate’.  The following night, I stood immediately opposite the door.  Someone looked out and turned back saying ‘Yes, here the — is, waiting for us’.  The Sergt had not turned up.  Out they all came and the bar door was bolted.  I had not heard the side door bolted and was sure there was someone there and stepped into the opening just as the ex Sergt came out, what he called me and mine settled it, sack me or no, I was going to settle things, my lamp and belt went on the ground, my tunic was all but undone to the neck when someone grabbed me from behind.  George Finch, he said you damned young fool, he’s not worth it, just put yourself straight and come along with me.  I never heard anything more about it.  Perhaps old George did me a good turn but that ex-Sergt whenever he saw me afterwards would cross the [page XIII] road or get out of my way somehow.  He never ought to have been a Constable.  He’s dead now, but has relatives still here.

Another time another Sergt Hughes upset [?] me.  I was morning duty and got to the Station at 5:45 just as he had shouted out “Fall In” so as I went in I shut the door and latched it.  I was really the first on Parade as I knew I was going to Buckland so put my cape and bottle on the bench.  After he had inspected us and read out the informations we got the “Quick March” and went off to take up our Beats.  I saw him about 7.45 am at Beaconsfield Avenue and he said: ‘Be prepared to be at the Chiefs Office at 9 am, you had better ring in about 8.40 or so’.  I said ‘All right Sergt, whats up?’  ‘Oh, don’t you know, I’ve reported you for parading late for Duty this morning’, but I said ‘Sergt I was not late, I closed the door when you called Fall In and was the first on Parade, why didn’t you challenge me then if you thought I was late not leave it till now, as I cannot call the others to speak for me’, he replied:- ‘No you can’t I have spoken to them’.  I rang down about 8.45am and enquired, and was told to be there at 9am.  When I was called to the Chiefs office I felt mad as I was quite innocent, and there being no “Constables Branch Board” in those days I knew I was for it as the Sergt had got his talk in first.  The Chief said: what excuse have you got to make, you have heard what the Sergt says.  ‘What have you to say?’  I replied:- ‘What’s the use of me saying anything, you’re bound to accept what he says [page XIV] as I can’t call any witnesses, he has so he says seen them all’.  That upset the Chief, said he had never heard such insolence and ordered me to get out.  He had the supposed offence (the only  one I believe during my service) recorded against me and although I had commendations that did not wipe out my heinous offence as if the records are still preserved can be seen still.

Not long after this same Sergt was found sitting on a dwarf wall in Park St in the early hours of the morning so drunk, he could not stand on his feet so was helped by PCs to a Doctor who sobered him up.  If I had found him I should have let him take his chance, not taken him to the Doctors.  I never again helped him to make his written reports as I had done before.  He was a useless sort of a fellow and frequently had a lady friend with him when on duty, he had a good wife at home.

I was a strong young man having been used to barrelage at the Brewery and did not fear for myself, in fact I never considered fear of any sort, but in the early part of 1901 I had I think the toughest job of my life.  I was one morning about 11am in Strand Street watching some colliers being discharged when the landlord of the George Hotel, opposite the Prince Imperial called to me from the steps at the entrance in Strand Street saying he had two navvies in his house drunk and he wanted them ejected.  I went in after telling him he must ask them to leave in my presence and if they refused, to make to put them out and call me for assistance [page XV] he asked them to leave but until I spoke and told them to go they sat still.  When I went towards them one got up and went out but I had to speak several times to the other who when he got up surprised me, he was a giant of a man.  I advised them both to go to their barracks at the Oil Mill which were being used to accommodate them as people would not have them as lodgers, they were Irish and came in hundreds by ship to work on the cliffs and at the making of the Dockyard, East Cliff.  They wore knickerbockers and blue puttees, were very broad in the shoulder and narrow at the hips, they drank porter till it was said it ran out of their eyes.

These two then said they would go where they liked and went into Snargate St.  A Sergt came down saying he heard it looked like trouble on the Quay but said he could see nothing out of the ordinary, he never did.  I showed him the two men but he never even spoke to them and cleared off.  He never had much heart for a row, but had plenty to say, and would drink his full share, if there was anything doing he was conspicuous by his absence.  He had not been gone a minute before they made for the Scotch House, back of the Harp Hotel, next to Trinity Church.  I knew there was only a barmaid there so stepped down into the Bar and waited for the attendant and told the girl not to serve them and to ask them to leave.  I would wait at the door as I did not want a rough house a few feet below road level; out they came and I again advised them to go to barracks and the smaller one did so, but the big fellow bawled out, ‘You’ve stopped our Porther’ [page XVI] and started creating a disturbance threatening what he would do with me, and he certainly looked as if he could.  I did think it would be nice to have a mate but I told him if he did not follow his pals example I should have to lock him up.  Oh dear, he shouted ‘who will you get to help you’ and I replied I should want no help.  That riled him up and as he looked down at me, he started swinging his arms about showing me what he would do with me.  He was much over 6ft, at last I collared him but had to reach up to do it, when we got to the George his pal turned up again and he wanted to go on to Commercial Quay, but I said ‘No, if you could not go your way you will come mine’.  With that he put his long arm across and pushed against my windpipe with all his power, he did not try to squeeze it and I let my head fall over to the right but he still kept the pressure up till I could see lights and dots and knew I should go down, so forgetting all about Queen Victoria I made a quick upper cut and down he came with me sticking to him like a leech so that he could not get a blow in.

We rolled up Snargate St, his mate and others saying ‘One dog, one bone, let them be’, no-one came to my assistance, I think everyone was afraid of the uncouth navvies.  I know it hardly sounds believable today but I don’t remember being on my legs until I got to slip passage.  He had snatched and thrown away my whistle, my helmet was gone, smashed up, my new tunic  [page XVII] and a new belt I had just had issued to me was smothered in tar as the road outside Jarretts had just been repaired.  Every time I came underneath in rolling up Snargate Street, he caught hold of my hair and tried to slam my head into the ground until at last I was nearly exhausted by putting all my strength into my neck and shoulders to keep my head up.  As it did not seem any help would arrive I told him if he did that again I would do the same to him, he had also tried to crush my lower ribs which were painful for weeks afterwards.  When we got to the Standard Office I could put up with no more so as he came underneath I took his hair and banged his head on the edge of the kerb.  He went flat out, and I got my handcuffs out and put one on, it nipped his wrist as he was so big boned and then I drew the other near and had rather a difficulty as that wrist seemed even bigger than the other but I forced it to shut, the pain must have restored him to consciousness and as soon as he realised he was cuffed he snarled and brought his wrists down on the kerb with all his might and the cuffs broke.  The only pair I have ever heard of being broken apart.  He still had one on each wrist as it had broken near the chain, and then the fun started all over again.

I forgot I was a policeman “and even if I got the sack” I remembered my father had been injured so severely it was held to be the cause of his death.  What [page XVIII] happened from there to slip passage I don’t know but I do know outside the Express Office someone saying:- ‘Do you want any help Bert’ (I always thought it was Charlie Cole from the Packet Yard but he always denied all knowledge of it).  At the time I was top dog and keeping his shoulders down but it was not easy.  I said ‘feel in my back tunic pocket for my dog-line, make a running noose with its brass eye and get it over his feet and lash his legs together’, others came to help then and I sent to Gaol Lane for a wheeled litter and instructed them how to unship it and to pass a strap round each leg before buckling to the sides.  When after fastening his arms we lifted it up we had a job to strap his wrists, even then he tried to get away and then I saw one of the leg straps had not been passed round the leg, he soon found he could draw one leg partly up and did so, and shot it down again, he had a worn heel-tip and it cut the canvas so one leg was hanging in the hole supported by his other leg,  When we got to the “Fountain”, Market Square, now the Westminster Bank, PC Cooney was outside the Duchess of Kent  PH and came over.  He wore a beard and prisoner on seeing him said ‘What have you got… old father to help you’.  Cooney thinking to stop his language went to put his hand over his mouth and was lucky he was not badly bitten as prisoner tried to get his teeth into him but his hand was withdrawn just in time.  I had to go at once to get my tunic opened [page XIX] up for new quarters to be inserted.  Next morning Inspector Nash talked about putting me on report for not charging him with assault, I said “Sorry Sir” but look at him and look at me, he looks like the assaulted one, he said.  ‘Rubbish, if you knew what folks have told me that saw it you don’t want to pity him I shall mention it to the Magistrates’.  Matthew Pepper sent him to Canterbury.

When I was going to the Magistrates Office some time later I saw him with others lining the kerb outside the International [word?] Market Square, could not miss him owing to his size.  I did not think about when he would be leaving prison but you could not mistake him, he towered above all the rest.  When he saw me he started walking with slow but long strides towards Flashmans, and when I knew he was close behind I turned and faced him. He put out his hand and said “Will ye shake hands Sor”.  I was thinking he might grip my hand and strike at the same time but I said “Certainly I will” and shook hands with him.  He expressed his sorrow but said it was me being so small that had annoyed him most, and added ‘you’re the finest policeman I ever knew.  If it had taken six of ye I would not have minded’.  I let him know I had let him off lightly, but I knew different, it could easily have been a bad job for me.  He said ‘if ever you’re in trouble and Patsy’s about he’s wid ye’, he told O’Leary [rather?] a big fellow and I never had trouble with any of them after.  If there was likely to be a disturbance I would look round and if he or [page XX] O’Leary were about would give them the nod and they would clear them out with their elbows.  I had a new pair of handcuffs that I carried for the rest of my service, they had four locks and would fit the smallest or largest wrist.  I know some who would have liked them but they were never taken from me and I handed them to my successor.

The Dover Observer had an article, (their office was next to the Masonic Hall), why didn’t they telephone for assistance not publish it afterwards.  I have the cutting from their paper. I was living over a Jewellers at 167 Snargate St at the time and my wife saw me rolling in the crowd from the window but could not recognise who it was, she thought it was perhaps a couple of drunks.  When I got home I said this job might be alright but you don’t half earn your money.  I have had other rough houses but that was the worst, and in broad daylight I could not use any means to protect myself, whilst he could use all and any means against me.

Then came the death of Queen Victoria and we were re-sworn under King Edward VII.  Helmet plates and buttons were altered to show a King’s crown.  I still have an old helmet plate and I think a few buttons, the buttons then were not chromium plated but real silver plated.

The Boer War was over, troops coming back and everything seemed fine.  Our duties were carried out as usual.  There were lots of things we did that they would not do today.  One thing I did not agree with was becoming an electric light extinguisher.  As daylight came in you would switch [page XXI] off public lamps in Harold Terrace, Maison Dieu Road etc etc.  As it got near 6am you had to hurry up to leave duty on time, and as it got light during the winter months say at 7 oclock or so, the 1st relief man would have to do it.  What opportunities for a wrong un if he saw a policeman acting like that.

We used to be allowed to call up people if they asked us to, and they were charged 6d a week to be collected and shared twice a year, we had to call on them on Saturday nights for the money and ask for any outstanding 6d that might be owing.  I never liked that job and after a rush to get to the houses before they went to bed to be told to call again next week just about did it for me.  Some locals like Folkestone Road might have one at 4am Manor Road, 4.15 Malvern Hill, 4.30 Kitchener Road perhaps two or three at the same time at the extremes of the beat, it was no joke whatever the weather racing to and fro, and then the best of it was, those who never did any night duty or were always put where there were no calls, all shared equally with those that did the work.  It was shared at midsummer and Xmas and the few shillings came in very useful.  If anyone wanted a single call that was 2d and not paid in.  Mr Prescott, Magistrate, Shipping Agent, Short Street occasionally wanted a call when going to London, he told you to hold out your helmet and he would drop a shilling into it from the window, but such calls were few and far between.  Any

[section 004] [page XXII] sum received as a gratuity exceeding 1/- had to be reported with the name and address of the giver and it was at the Chief’s discretion whether you were allowed to keep it, or if it should go into the Police Funds.

I was for about 24 hours beyond the dreams of Avarice with 80,000 Golden sovereigns to myself.  It was a very cold wintry afternoon when I went to the Police Station dressed rough and with a weighted stick, in plain clothes to continue a watching job at River Without, lying up in a hedge.  The chief, Mr Knott, called me to his office and told me he wanted me to go to the Prince of Wales Pier where on the station at the end I would see an Agent who knew I would be there about 4.15 or before and would show me some boxes of bullion that was to go on the S S Patricia to USA but she was a bit late.  He would be down again before the ship got alongside, there were arrangements that no one should be allowed on the Pier and there were no boats alongside of any description.  He had another man with him so I asked where the gold was, he said ‘under that tarpaulin behind you’, the tarpaulin looked rough as if it had been thrown there in a heap, nothing to show there was anything beneath.  It was almost dark but I told him I must count the boxes before accepting responsibility as I should be entirely by myself.  I counted 16 boxes, 5,000 in each, covered them again roughly and they went saying they [page XXIII] did not think she (the vessel) would be long, and they would be back.

I had brought no food or drink, it came on to snow and I was frozen to the marrow.  I saw the glare of a house on fire (in Folkestone Road it turned out) but daylight came but no vessel or the agent appeared, till about 10am when he (the Agent) arrived with the Buffet Keeper from the Lord Warden Hotel.  I told him I was frozen and starving and he said would I have some coffee.  I said ‘if you’ve got any whisky give me a good dose and then some more in hot coffee, also a good feed of some thing or other’.  I had a real good drink and then some more in hot coffee, half a chicken and some ham and bread.  I told him I was prepared to stay for a bit longer if he would telephone the Chief to let him know and get a message to my wife to tell her not to worry.  I stayed till after 4pm and as the Patricia had broken down in the North Sea and not likely to arrive, a gang of shore-force men with one of the long barrows with wheels like a cart that they used for mails and baggage were sent from the Admiralty Pier at the request of the Agent.  They loaded the 16 cases into the barrow and with me looking more like a tramp than anything in charge, it was run to the National Provincial Bank, New Bridge.  The Bank was opened by the manager and his staff to see it brought in to the strong room, I remained outside.  The bullion next day was sent to Southampton to go by another vessel.  When it was all over 10/- was handed to me at the Police Office for my duty, [page XXIV] I would willingly have paid that if I had it for a cup of hot tea that night.

Another very cold job I had was after PC Southey had been seriously assaulted and injured by a suspected poacher on Old Park Hill, I was Night Duty in uniform but was ordered on duty at 4pm in plain clothes, told to watch myself but at all costs to arrest the wanted man, who was a powerful and dangerous man to tackle.  In the tussle he had left his cap behind and it was suspected he would go to his lodging during the hours of darkness to get some clothing before leaving this area.  He had been lodging at Hillside.  Snow was on the ground which on the grass at the back of Hillside had partly thawed and then frozen again so that it crackled like glass when walked on.  It was difficult to secrete oneself as there was little to hide behind and I had to arrange the best position as he might enter from the front, but I thought the back being open to the hills was the more likely way.  I was there as soon as it got dark but could not move about owing to the crackling underfoot and I stuck it till about 11.45 pm without result.  My feet were practically dead and although I managed to walk I could not feel that my feet touched the ground.  What a condition if he had returned (unless he ran away when he saw someone about, he could have treated me worse than Southey).  When I got to the tunnel under the railway. Crabble Arch, my feet began to hurt and I had to stop.  It was agony and I thought I should never walk again, but I kept lifting one foot after another and eventually I managed to get [page XXV] going again.  It took quite a long time before I felt safe to step out, and when I reached home about 1am I had a slightly warm footbath and added a little more hot water at the tiume to get them warmed up before going to bed.  I had never had such cold feet before, or since.  The culprit was some months later arrested on a Warrant, brought back and dealt with.

I was very fortunate with anything that happened, but I must admit I did not neglect my duty, and the jobs did not just roll my way.  I worked with a purpose, and that was why I liked night duty.  If anything happened I was free to try whatever I thought, to deal successfully with the matter, not have to hand over a good job after you had brought it near success to somebody else and they take the credit.  I could quote you some things that were no credit to those in charge, simply I had to pass on what I knew for the favoured ones to take on.  It was heartbreaking to get brought out in plain clothes after they had had a day, perhaps two on a job and to be told you will go with — and if you get anything hand it over for him to take.  The individual concerned had no heart for tackling anything by himself or the common sense or shrewdness for the job.

Here’s a case no one could take away from me.  One early morning I was on the Sea Front, it was summer-time and daylight, when Sergeant Maxted came and asked if I had seen anyone about as someone had tried to break in at No 3? The Paddock and had broken a table knife leaving half the blade inside, but had failed to gain entry.  The noise had roused the occupiers who saw a man he could not [page XXVI] give any description up at all, he could only say it was a man.  I kept my eyes open and was extra busy till 6am but saw no strangers or anyone I could question.  I left duty and caught the 6.5 tram to Maxton.  PC Beer and PC C Cadman were also in the tram.  I think it was about the first night of Cadman being a PC.  We spoke about no one having seen anything of anyone being about, and as we got further on the conversation flagged.  As the tram was passing Belgrave Gardens it passed a man going towards Maxton, I knew that was the man wanted.  He was a stranger to me but I was positive (I have had several similar intuitions in my time and they were always right).  I said to the other two who were sitting opposite, There’s our Burglar (and I being the oldest constable said to Beer: ‘Come on I shall want you when the tram stops’, which it was about to do.  Cadman said: ‘me, as well’.  I said ‘No, you can go home and get some sleep’.  Beer did not seem to think much of it so I told him ‘whatever happens, if I’m wrong I take all the blame, if not you have half the credit’.  We went back and I know Beer thought I was making a mistake or acting quite daft.  When I met him I wished him a cheery good morning and asked where he was off to so early.  He replied ‘I thought a nice walk would do me good’.  I then asked where he had stayed or was staying in the town, and he said ‘the truth is I came into the town late and as it was such a nice night I thought a few hours on the [page XXVII] promenade till daylight would be better than taking a bedroom for an hour or two’.  I had noticed some dried grass adhering to his coat and as I had been on the Sea Front all night I knew he was lying.  I told him I was not satisfied with what he said and asked what he had about him and made as if to search him, he said, ‘Oh No’:  I said ‘you can come round the corner or go to the Police Station because I intend seeing what you have about you’.  He got on the high horse saying he would take some action against me if I did not let him pass at once and that I had no power to subject him to such treatment.  I nodded to Beer to fall in behind as I did not know if he might drop anything although nothing had been reported stolen.  I told him to settle any dispute I was taking him to the Police Station.

When we got in view of the Griffin PH someone came out and the prisoner said:- ‘Is that a Public House Open’.  I said ‘Yes’, and he asked to go and have a drink.  I said ‘if what you say is correct you can have a drink with me when we leave the Police Station, not now’.  He turned sideways and said ‘It’s a — good job you’ve got a mate or you would know all about it’.  I said threats won’t hurt me.  When I went in the station the door was swung to and PC Smithers who was in charge came and asked what I had got.  I told him I had brought him in on suspicion of being concerned in the Paddock job.  He said ‘there’s nothing stolen, you can’t bring people in like this’, I [page XXVII note 2 pages with this number] said ‘I have done’ and turned to start a search.  The prisoner at once raised his arms (so I knew he had been in before) and said as I went to feel inside his breast pocket, ‘be careful how you put your hand in there’, and the first thing I brought out was a broken table knife, half the maker’s name on it, the broken piece from the Paddock was produced and that had the other half of the name.  There was a bit of excited feeling, so I continued my search and under his vest wrapped around his chest was wide strips of a damask tablecloth binding to his undershirt silver spoons and forks, also knives and ladles (it turned out later to be the whole contents of a Plate Basket) there were sets of each and by the time I had cleared them up he looked much slimmer.

Smithers rang up the CC D Fox who at once came over in his slippers and he was delighted, asked if I had charged him, had I any idea where the stuff came from, how did I know him, what was Beer waiting for.  He sent Beer home but I said I must stay until something happened.  He was charged with stealing from some person or persons at present unknown and put back.  About 7.30 a young servant girl came running in saying all their silver was gone, somebody had broken in at 18 Victoria Park.  She was brought round into the office and she was pleased when she saw and recognised the stuff as that stolen.  She was told to ask her master to come down and prefer the charge.  He went [page XXVIII] to Quarter Sessions, had two 18 month sentences, I was commended and rewarded by the Watch Committee and I afterwards went to Guilford Assizes to prove previous convictions, he got 3 years for burglary.  His name was Chapman and as he passed with Warders in a Gate [?] he recognised me and shouted out “Hello Baker” and smiled.

I cut up old motor tyres and stripped the canvas to one thickness and so wore I believe the first rubber soled boots for night duty, they were very heavy but I could not hear myself walk and that was all that mattered.  I don’t like recording it but some of my colleagues always seemed to wear extra heavy boots at night, so that if anyone was about they could get away unquestioned, their nerves seemed poor, one man when I silently showed up would always say with a sneer “seen anything, heard anything”, it showed they had a liking for their own footsteps because later on all men were issued with a pair of I think “Phillips” Rubber Heels and told they were to last six weeks.  How they managed it I don’t know because with fair weather they would last me double that time but some of them were walking noisily on the plates in about three weeks.  A few dry leaves on an Autumn night skidding along the pavement would keep them looking behind.  I can’t vouch for the following but I believe t’s true.  One extra highly strung was passing in the early hours through Dieu Stone Lane and another “to give him a fright” who knew of it secreted himself and threw in the air an electric light bulb which fell just behind No 1 and exploded with a bang. [page XXIX] No 1 never even looked round but cleared out as fast as he could go, he never reported anything unusual, then, or at any other time. Good man [underlined in text].

Another time I went about 2-2.30am through the path between the Park and St Mary’s Cemetery and saw waiting in the road by Charlton Cemetery Gates another PC who said “Coming up” meaning for me to accompany him up Chalky Lane and The Roman Road.  I said:- ‘Not me, I go there as I should when on that beat but I’ve got my own beat to attend to’, he said:- ‘if you don’t, I shan’t go by myself and didn’t’.  He was later made a Sergeant.

When Lord Kitchener, “Sirdar of Egypt” returned he landed at Admiralty Pier.  The Force were paraded in top coats and marched to the entrance and between there and the Lord Warden Hotel stood on Parade for Inspection (I have a photo of it).  I had heard he had steely blue eyes so I took notice and saw he had piercing blue eyes, never seen eyes more penetrating.

When the dowager Empress of Russia made her first visit, I was in plain clothes on the top promenade with instructions to see that no one overlooked the pier and boat (the pier was quite a narrow affair the same as when Lord Kitchener arrived).  Journalists came from London but as they left the train were escorted off the Pier where they hung about so I kept near the steps at the land end.  One asked if I would press a button on a circular arrangement on a tiny camera as she came over the gangway, he would be pleased to give £3 for a picture.  I cleared him out, but the picture was published next day so someone had done it.  She had travelled to Calais in a bomb proof [page XXX] train as she was so afraid of Nihilists.  For bodyguard she had a huge Russian with full beard, wearing a rather tall Astrakhan hat like a silk hat without the brim, the whole railway was extra closely guarded with platelayers about every 100 yards to London as well as the Police at all bridges and crossings, but on her next visit the precautions were only the same as for other Royalty.

When King Edward VII on one occasion was coming over, he was to have a dirigible escort, the first to be in service, as well as destroyers.  It was well advertised and folks flocked in from all parts to see the new invention, many undesirables from London were stopped at the Harbour Station by Scotland Yard Men (who had arrived early for that purpose) and sent back by the next train as suspected persons.  When the dirigible was overhead people were craning their necks, using glasses, and leaning backwards to get a good view.  When it was passed and folks felt for their watches they found someone had had a field day, nothing easier for a pickpocket, with everybody sticking themselves out and leaning backward.

A retired Chief Insurance Agent has his gold presentation watch and chain lifted and was grieved that in no way was it ever returned to him.  Many others lost theirs but the culprits got away with it all.  It usually happened that if anything of importance was advertised by the Railway Company, we would get an influx of undesirables who would be gone before householders returned home and found their house burgled. [page XXXI]

I remember one occasion when there were six, all a long way from each other, I had to go to Captain Jupp’s, Westband Gardens, Nr Shakespeare Road.  The front door had been burst by bodily pressure, the iron socket for the latch broken and lay at the end of the Hall at the bottom of the stairs.  Every Wardrobe and Drawer had been forced with a jemmy the mirrors in the wardrobes split by the pressure of the jemmy and all locks forced out, on top of the bed was a heap of jewellery and Indian filigree silver ware where it looked as if the whole of what they found had been tipped out and what they wanted sorted out and taken.  Mrs Jupp and her sister Miss Erith had had golden guineas, (I don’t know now whether one, or how many) that their father had given them, they were gone.  The damage was very heavy as all the articles smashed open were good quality.  Moral:- Leave everything undone or open.

When the Dover Pageant opened (owing to thefts from the clothing of those taking part during the practices) which they were acting in their various episodes, I was told not to go near the Police Station but to go to an attic in Effingham Street where, (at the time I was told to attend), I should find one of Clarkson’s men to disguise me and show me how to do it myself as their staff would be busy all the week.  With wig beard and dress I did not know myself, one man only recognised me by my voice, I told him not to mention it to others as I was there for a purpose, and although he saw me often enough he never [page XXXII] spoke.  The thieves or some of them were told to return their clothes and they never asked why.  They had fountain pens, money, wallets etc but it was not desirable to prosecute, one of them was a shady shopkeeper dressed as a Monk.  My biggest difficulty was when my episode was on I might be seen around dressing rooms and marquees and so cause comment and perhaps suspicion.

Another time we had a series of thefts from Gas-meters from houses with a semi-basement where the coal cellar was under the front door steps, the doors of which, if locked, were broken open, but usually they were left undone.  There was only one person who had seen anyone about and that was a neighbour of mine, Mrs Fagg, who was opening her lower door, saw and spoke to him, he saying he was looking for somebody, she did not know till the morning her meter had been robbed.  She of course did not know of the robberies all over the town.

At the same time we were getting burglaries, but usually in the late evenings, so it was difficult to pick up anyone as folks were still about in the roads and streets.  It got very bad, every day something or other so I asked Mrs Fagg for a fuller description if possible but she could not help.  I said:- ‘Do you think if you saw him again you would know him’ and she said “yes” and ‘especially if I heard him speak, I feel sure I should know him’.  Then I saw Mr Fagg and in his presence asked if she with her husband’s consent, that is, if he would give it, would consider [page XXXIII] coming out with me for an evening or two’s stroll in the hope that we should meet him, that was of course, subject to the CC [Chief Constable?] agreeing to the arrangement, they both agreed, and when I spoke to the CC he was not much impressed by the idea but something had got to be done, especially as the Inspector’s house had been entered, the Sunday joint pinched and his dog shut up, and a Metropolitan Policeman had had his marble clock and a mackintosh stolen from Malmains Road.  So that night I took Mrs Fagg and wandered off up Frith Road as if it might be a courting couple.  As we turned into Barton Road I saw a man by the gates of Clarks Nursery coming towards Frith Road and expected him to cross over so slowed up a bit so that I could meet and see his face, but he kept along by the school wall until I knew he could pass without me getting a good look at him and then he started to cross the road.  He had no overcoat although it was cold.  I said to Mrs Fagg ‘what about it, do you think that looks anything like him because I’m taking no chances’.  She was hesitant, so I said ‘you follow up, I must catch him’.  I ran through Avenue Road and saw him walking briskly on the opposite side of the road so ran and overtook him, apologised and said ‘a lady friend of mine wants to see you, you are Mr Friend aren’t you’, he said ‘No, she’s mistaken’, by this time Mrs Fagg had arrived and I looked at her, she nodded her head and said ‘No’.  I then told him I was a constable and in answer to queries he said he was living at No – New Street, at present unemployed, was expecting to get a start etc etc.  I wished him Goodnight and Goodluck and had no grounds to [page XXXIV] detain him as Mrs Fagg said he was not the man and there was no one else could identify him, but I knew, knew he was the man I wanted.  I told Sergeant Palmer (Station Sergeant) what I had done and he said ‘you’ll be getting yourself into serious trouble if you’re not careful, fancy pulling a man up like that, you know nothing of him’.  I said ‘No Sergeant, but I am willing to learn’.  I had several skits from others about it, but I knew he was the man, no one else in the Force had seen him and I intended to make other enquiries and hoped they would lead to something definite.

I turned out in my own time next morning and went to the address in New Street, had an excuse if he happened to be in, but he wasn’t.  I knew the landlady who was prepared to be helpful and she told me he had been staying there for two or three weeks, or more, but frequently was out all night and perhaps a night or two at a time.  I asked if he had got anything in his bedrioom I could look over, she said:- He didn’t have a bedroom he sleeps on the sofa here in the front room and if the door is locked he don’t call me up but gets in the window.  I had a look round the front room and told her if he enquired to say no one had called.  I was more sure than ever now, the jobs continued and a quantity of silver-ware was stolen from the top of Priory Hill.  Some began to try to take me out for a walk, saying, ‘Why don’t you catch him etc’.

It went on till I think Whit Monday, (it may have been Easter Monday) I was out in my own time and went opposite Waterloo Crescent as a Band was playing there to scrutinise those standing about.  I did not [page XXXV] see him but he told me afterwards he saw me as he knew by seeing me about at so many different times I was after him he cleared out.   That night at either Ramsgate or Margate an Inspector and Sergeant were talking when they spoke to a passer-by who said he was looking for lodgings, a constable joined them and then left as the passer-by was walking away, he then spoke to him and having knowledge of some minor offences during the evening and articles missing he took him to the Police Station to satisfy himself, he found the missing articles on the man, he (the man) said he had been unlucky in failing to make sure of a lodging, there was no credit to them as he knew he would have the rule run over him sometime during the night and if he gave his Dover address enquiries would be made, he said ‘the credit is Bakers, he’s the only one of the force knows me and I have been dodging him for weeks, he’s been after me at all hours and I’ve had several narrow shaves, he nearly had me this morning on the Sea Front, that’s how I came here and got stranded tonight’.

They brought him back, I saw him in the Reserve Room and he said he wished he had admitted it when I first stopped him, asked about the Leg of Mutton, he said the dog “supposed to be a good house dog” did not make any noise so he shut him up.  The clock he had under his arm with the mackintosh over it when he walked down Folkestone Road and wished a Policeman outside the Engineer PH Goodnight.  The silver from Priory Hill he dropped in the harbour in a bag behind the gates of the Granville Dock as he was afraid to sell it.  A diver retrieved them flattened out where the [page XXXVI] gates had crushed them to the wall.  He had been living with a woman at the Pier and had only used New Street when he thought it unsafe to go down there owing to it being late and the fear of being stopped and questioned.  I was not mentioned or allowed in Court.  Mrs Fagg afterwards told me she knew him when I stopped him in Frith Road, but she felt so sorry for him and the prospects of him going to prison that she denied all knowledge of him hoping he would go away somewhere else.  The woman was also charged but was allowed to go.

His name was Mort and after coming out he got a job as Head Porter at the door of a London Hotel, he came to Dover and I saw him, I think he was killed in the 1914-18 War as he was a Reservist and I have never seen him since.

Another experience was with G Greenland.  A message from the Metropolitan Police giving the names of two men and a woman named “Daldry” for stealing Bank-notes believed left for Australia by the SS Vallerat from Tilbury.  Warrant applied for, Please Arrest.  It was the latter part of the afternoon and I said to Greenland, the best thing is to ask the Shipping Agents what time such a vessel left because we have no warrant, even if they say “Arrest” and wire back.  He said ‘its risky, if the Captain won’t let us have them, that is if we can catch the ship and they are aboard it’.  I said ‘lets go to Crundalls Shipping Office’ and we did, there was no ship of that name, no doubt it was a mistake as the “Ballerat” was due to sail from Tilbury but he expected it had passed here by that time.  We hurried off to the Sea Front and told Mr Brockman, boatman, we wanted to get [page XXXVII] in touch with the vessel, he spoke to someone else and then said he thought it had passed about half an hour before.  We said if we could afford it we would hire his boat but we had no authority to spend any money, but if he would take us we would pay for the petrol, and if successful he would be able to claim all his expenses and a bit over.  He told us he liked a “sporting” chance, rowed us to the motor boat and off we went out of the Western [harbour] entrance, there was a big ship going down the channel and he said ‘I reckon that’s it, we can’t catch up with that’.  It was getting dark and the sea was none too smooth, the boat stood up on end at times so he made for the Eastern entrance, as we got just inside we were hailed by another motor boat lying alongside the steps and in reply to our query they said they were waiting to land the Pilot from the SS Ballerat, so with their permission we were transhipped to wait.

After a long time a flare was burned to the East and was answered from our boat and off we went to sea again.  There was a heavy swell and I was told to stand on the cover of the bows and as we ran alongside, when the ladder came to near the boat I must jump on it because if the pilot started first we should never get aboard. It looked I thought like I should fall in but I caught the ladder and those behind shouted get on it, I did manage it but how I don’t know.  I had never been on such a thing before and when I looked up it looked like climbing up the [castle] Keep.  Anyway Greenland had a job to do it as well, so very carefully making sure [page XXXVIII] as well as I could I started climbing, it seemed never-ending till I felt someone take hold of my collar and then I was on deck, Greenland was soon up and he told the officer we were Police Officers, and did not disclose our business as there were quite a number of men about.  He took us with him and we saw the Captain and stated our business, he at once asked if we had a Warrant.  I said:- ‘Oh yes’, and made to feel in my inside pocket, he was not pleased but sent for the steward to bring him the Passenger List, ordered the boat to stand off, and the List having arrived the steward looked for the Daldry’s name and found it.  He gave instructions to the boat “as he would not stop his ship” to be ready when he returned as he was going to take a round turn. (He had already been delayed truing his compass) He told us to hurry up and we were taken to the mens sleeping quarters after ascertaining the numbers of their bunks, the first one with a number we wanted was vacant and I thought they had been told we were aboard, just then a voice asked what was the matter and as I looked to his bunk I saw the number, one of those wanted “Greenland had gone I think to start a hunt” so I challenged him and he admitted he was J Daldry and pointed to another bunk saying his brother was asleep.  Greenland came back and told me he would see about them and I could go and get the woman.  The stewardess had been sent for but I was shown the woman’s quarters and right opposite the entrance was a curtained off bunk with the [page XXXIX] number I wanted, I saw that the curtain was a trifle bulged so spoke at the same time touching the curtain and asked her name, she replied Daldry.  I asked her Christian name and she said ‘Ada’, I hung on for a bit waiting for the stewardess, and when she came I said ‘you must get up Mrs Daldry as I am taking you into custody concerned with your husband and brother-in-law in stealing the Banknotes’.  She said ‘where are we’, and when I said Dover , she said they were not going to stop till they got to Las Palmas.  She was hurriedly dressed while I waited in the gangway, when she showed up she was quite a girl, and only recently married, she carried a Mac, Book and Vanity Bag.  I put my hand out and she gave me the Book, and then the Mac, but said ‘its only my vanity bag’, and expected to be allowed to keep it, but I said ‘I must have it’.  She demurred but afterwards did let me have it saying:- ‘You’ve got it all in there’.  Then we soon got ready to get down to the boat which came alongside.

Greenland went first followed by a seaman to safeguard one of the Daldrys, and all three went down the same way, with someone to help keep them from falling.  I was asked if I wanted someone to help me, I said ‘I got up I shall get down, Thanks’.  I wish I hadn’t said that, after a precarious descent, I heard someone tell me to jump, but it wasn’t so easy, sometimes the boat nearly touched me and then it was a long way below, it had got much rougher, I did at last make a successful jump.  The prisoner’s luggage would be [page XL] sent back from Las Palmas, so they landed in tropical kit with three deck chairs, no luggage and only a handbag, they were all very sick as the motor-boat tossed about so and we were landed at the steps at the dump head of the Granville Dock.  It was 2.0 am when we arrived at the Town Hall.  The CC Mr Knott was waiting in the High Street for us and was glad because he had had no word of us, and Brockman had not thought to let anyone know.  All he (the CC) knew was we had the information and as Offices were shut did not think it any use to enquire, expecting us to turn up sometime but when it came late in the evening he began to wonder and would not go to bed till he knew what had become of us.  He did not grumble but thought we should have got in touch with the station, and we of course could only say that we never dreamt of being hanging about so long before seeing the ship and getting aboard, there was no way to let them know, in fact we never troubled about that, all we wanted was to make sure if possible of the arrest.  We had a nice letter of commendation from the Commissioner of Metropolitan Police.

Sequel: Somewhere about 1926 I was sitting in the office when someone called, and when the Station Sergeant went to the wicket I heard someone say: We wondered if you would let us see the little room where we were kept after being arrested at sea on such and such a date.  I recognised the woman’s voice so butted in with “How are you Mrs Daldry” and went to the wicket, her husband [page XLI] was with her and they were pleased saying they did not expect to see me when they called and what a memory I had to remember her voice.  I asked about the brother and they said he was killed in the 1914-18 War.  I had them round in the office and we had a real good chin-wag.  They told me none of them had imprisonment and the notes belonged to a near relative.  I cannot remember how it was that they got away with it.

Somewhere about this time I was for Watch Committee Parade and for some reason had to go down town and got rather behind, so on my way home I called in the Barber’s shop next the Alma PH for a quick shave, a thing I rarely did as I always shaved myself.  There was a man in the chair so I made to leave but the barber said I shall not be long, so I stayed, not because of what he said but I had that intuition again.  I looked at but could not recognise the man in the chair as answering any description of wanted persons but I knew and began to think and worry as to who he might be.  He was finished and the barber said “Next” but I looked at the man and followed him outside and took a chance shot.  I said, ‘Hello, how long ago when you left Ramsgate’.  He replied ‘Are you a copper’ and I said “Yes”, he said what do you want?  That Watch and I said “Yes”. He handed me a mans watch and I took him to the Police Station, on the way he said ‘Are they putting anything else up against me’ and I said ‘No to my knowledge’.  Which was true at that time, but he was wanted at [page XLII] several places.

Now here is the most puzzling thing of all.  One night I was on No 9 Beat that included Military Hill to Mount Pleasant to Cowgate Hill, to King Street and back to the Station.   Jack Groombridge was a Corporal (we had corporals in those days), to be acting Sergeant if necessary, and as we had our Night Sergeant, he was on duty with the Fire Escape in the Market.  I had left him somewhere just before 1.0 am and was trying my fastenings and had nearly reached the Metropole Hotel when I had an intuition there was someone about, who knew I was about, and I knew I had been close to him.  I went back slowly to the corner of the Market and saw Groombridge in the Walmer Castle PH doorway looking towards Cannon Street.  He started to walk to me and I to him, he thinking I had found some premises insecure.  I said:- have you seen anyone about, that tickled him and he began to rag me about seeing things.   Then I knew where the fellow was and told him there was someone in the butchers shop next to Highleys.  He thought that a proper joke, but as he was a Corporal and that shop was on another beat I could not go there, but he could (if there had been no Corporal I should have gone myself).  He went to the door, tried it, laughed, and said it was my imagination.  I said All Right, but if I were you I should keep my eye on Highleys.  The next time I went round Groombridge was in a sweat and said “he was standing in the Walmer Castle doorway about half an hour before when he saw a [section 007] [page XLIII] man suddenly dart noiselessly from the butcher’s doorway, he ran to Market Street as that was the way he went but could neither see or hear anything of him.  He har tried the door but it was still locked.  I had a look and then saw an iron bar one of three or four over the fanlight was loose at one end.  He begged me not to say nothing about it.  Next night on Parade we were asked if anyone saw anyone about during the night as the desk at the butcher’s shop had been broken open, a small sum stolen and an iron bar wrenched away from over the door.  How did I know?  Groombridge never after queried anything I did.

When the tram-road was laid to River the road was excavated on the near side as far as Crabble Road to allow for the foundations for the rails.  I was on Point Duty or it might be almost called a patrol because there was such a long stretch open at the time and I had to do the best I could by myself.  There was only room for one line of traffic from Manger’s Lane or just above it to the junction with Crabble Road.  I let through a line of several pair horse vans with the Sunday School children from St Marys who were going to a School-treat somewhere in the Kearsney Area.  A motor-car quite a rarity arrived coming down the hill but it had to stop, the engine was left running to make sure it would start again and I put my arms up to stop any further traffic from coming up and as the vans of children were nearing the junction I went towards the car intimating he could proceed as soon as they had passed, as the last van with two powerful shire horses [page XLIV] was approaching the driver of the car started the car up, Chug, Bang, Chug, Bang and increased the noise so much it frightened the horses who suddenly swerved and turned to come down the hill the driver had fallen backwards among the children and they started to scream, further frightening the horses.  I had gone part of the way down the hill so as to stop anything coming up and on turning having heard the screaming saw the van would soon have the two wheels in the excavation.  How I reached and stopped them I don’t remember.  “I had been used to horses” but I found myself on the pole between the horses, they were terrified but as I gathered and pulled the reins to head them away from the trench, the driver managed to get on his seat and I handed the reins back to him.  The horses were soon pacified and pulled up and the van followed up the hill as soon as the traffic allowed.  I had such a lot of money given me that I felt embarrassed and as I had not time to ask names owing to attending the traffic, I decided not to say anything about it, it was nearly all half-crowns and I don’t know how much I had.

About 4.0 pm Sergeant Figg came up, I reported ‘All Right Sergean’t, he said “All Right”, stood there for a bit and said any Reports.  I said ‘No Sergeant’.  Then he started spluttering.  ‘Have you had any runaway horses’.  I said ‘Yes, but they didn’t get far’.  ‘Give me the report’ he said.  I said ‘I can’t leave a job like this to make a report and I have taken no names or any [page XLV] particulars’.  He said ‘I’ve been sent to take this job on whilst you go to the Police Office, The Chief wants you, and don’t be too long, I don’t want this job as I’ve other things to attend to, so get back as soon as you can’.  I expect he was extra thirsty as it was a hot day.  As soon as I got to the station I was taken to the CC’s office and instead of a wigging, he was jubilant and all smiles.  He didn’t keep me in doubt, “again what have you done” he said.  ‘People have been ringing me up about you and saving that van of children from being tipped over into the trench, tell me how you got on the pole’, all I could say was “I don’t know myself” then he said ‘I have also had several gifts of money from different people sent in for you, and am having letters appropriately worded, and copies for your perusal and signature will be sent to each’.  He handed me quite a nice sum and then I said that I also had money pushed on me but did not know from whom so could not give the names in my report.  He asked ‘how much’ and I was going to turn out my pocket when he said ‘Never mind, you ought to have obtained their names, but as you haven’t, don’t mention the money’, so he never knew what I did have.  Letters were also sent in and I was taken to the Watch Committee, Commended and Rewarded.  My house I had rented from Mr Boyton, Junior and his sister was in the van as the one in charge.  He came up to the house to thank me personally and said he would like to do something for me, wouldn’t I like to buy the house out of my rent, he could arrange everything if I could add [page XLVI] another shilling a week to my rent.  That’s how I started to buy No 45, it was a long uphill job which seemed endless but eventually I carried home the Deeds.  We had managed it, but not without effort.

Owing to a lot of stealing of clothes from clothes-lines I was fetched out for plain clothes duty from 4-12 midnight.  I had noticed that most of the offences were in the Folkestone Road area so at once made enquiries at Mount Pleasant from a friend and was assured nothing had been offered of the description given, and I also made enquiries at dealers, but found they were all wise to the thefts but they knew nothing.  I went to the foot of the steps behind the Malvern PH so that I could see without being seen because I had a feeling it was a soldier.  I went to the station at 10.0 pm and got chewed up for not reporting at 8 o clock but I was not wanted for anything.  I was asked where I had been and when I told them only got a sneer and was told not to waste my time there again.  Next evening I took another route and when I got in at 8.0 pm was told another lot had gone (from North Street).  I made enquiries but no [one] had been seen only a soldier waiting about, supposedly for a girl, from that the enquiries went to the citadel and it was found clothing still damp had been sold by one of the men and parcels had been sent to his home at Chatham.  The police there were informed and they recovered quite a lot of the articles and the soldier [page XLVII] was brought in.  I had nothing to do with it, but if it had not been for me they would not have got anybody.  All they thought about was visiting second-hand shops.

About this time also was brought in “The Black List”, “Habitual Drunkards” were on conviction photographed and with their descriptions printed and circulated to all Licensed Houses.  The circulars had to be, and were hung up in a prominent position for all to see.  The individual concerned was warned not to enter licensed premises and the licensee of any PH was held responsible to see that he did not do so.  Should he attempt to obtain liqueur he should eject him and inform the police, should anyone obtain for him, or give him his own drink, that person would also be dealt with.  We had quite a number of these circulars with photos exhibited in the whole of the Licensed Premises.  It eventually became a dead letter.

I had a week of success in arresting Deserters, £4-10-0.  The first one denied that he had ever been in the Service, I had a good talk with him and started walking with him saying that to make sure I would look at the Gazette again, and then should he be accosted again he could refer to it.  I had intended making some excuse to avoid going to the station although he looked a smart disciplined man, as an ex-service man.  He said:- ‘are you going to take me in’ and I replied:- ‘only to see the Gazette’.  Then he said:- ‘That’s done me.  I have been a deserter from the Navy for over a year.  I shall have stoppages of pay for months, you will get £3 Reward and I shall have to pay all your expenses, as well as the Navy punishments.  I have been afraid all the time of being arrested and am glad it’s all over’.  I got the £3 later and took him to Chatham the following day.  That was on a Sunday, on the Thursday following I met a man in Dieu Stone Lane and challenged him, after denial, he admitted being an Army Deserter, 10/-, and on the Sunday morning on Castle Hill met a young fellow carrying a rush basket, (the same as used for fish or poultry). He had a good blue suit and I thought he was from some institution.  I asked what he had in the bag and found it was broken food, after much questioning he said he was a ships writer [shipwright?] from Chatham and had been away about eight days, as he did not like the navy.  I took him back to Chatham after Court on Monday, £1.  One man who was clerking and getting extra money for it, said, ‘I do all the work, what about it’.  I put down 2/- and he took it. I knew he had had me before, so did not feel very generous.

I was on morning duty in Folkestone Road one bitter cold day in March, a canvas shelter in an iron tubing frame was in the road outside Belgrave Gardens as the joints of the tram-rails were being planed down level.  I had just passed it and was passing the Girl’s Orphanage when I heard a horse coming from behind me at a terrific rate, and on turning saw an Army Horse with [page XLIX] the two front wheels of a gun-carriage attached, I could see that I would not be able to stop it as it was on slightly falling ground so blew my whistle to attract attention so that folks could get in front gardens or somewhere and just had time to clear myself.  As it approached the rise to the Priory Bridge it was easily stopped but during that time I heard another run-a-way coming as its hooves sounded on the granite setts.

When it came into view it had what I thought was a rug hanging from the saddle, I got in position to make an attempt to stop it when what I thought was a rug hit the canvas shelter and knocked it on one side, I then realised it was a man hanging head downwards.  It still came on apparently terrified by the body swinging and banging on the ground.  I did not think I should be successful but I was, and grabbed it by the bridle and after a short run with it, it stopped, trembling and very nervous.  A tram came up from the town and I handed the horse over to Fred Pay, Inspector of Tramway, at the same time the foot slipped out of the stirrup and the man fell in a heap.   His chest was naked and skinned and his head enveloped in his tunic which had been dragged over his head.  I cut through his clothing to free his head, he was a shocking sight as his face and head generally had been hitting the ground before the tunic covered it up.  I freed what had been his mouth, sent bystanders to phone an ambulance, no motor then, I [page L] borrowed a coat because of the cold wind to lay over him, he was so injured I dare not try to move him.  A doctor (I think it was Dr Osborn) drove up visiting patients and stopped, he looked at him and said, I can do nothing, get him into my carriage and to the hospital without delay.  I did not know how to start as the man was wearing a leg iron as he had been riding the one horse which had been attached by a spread-bar to the gun carriage the other horse being in the shafts.  The carriage was an enclosed two seater with glass front.  When with assistance I got him in I had to hold him on my knees with my head against the centre support of the front windows, no room for anyone else.  On Priory Bridge I passed PC Smithers pushing the litter but could not attract his attention owing to the position I was in.  At the Hospital they said it’s a case for the Military Hospital but I refused to again move him and said I had been ordered to bring him there.

A telephone message was sent to his home at Chatham after communicating with Archcliffe Fort Barracks where he was stationed in the RASC.  His mother Mrs Graham arrived too late to see him alive, he lived for four hours.  I took his mother and sister to see the body in the Hospital Mortuary, a very sad job.

It appears he had been sent with a vehicle halfway to Shorncliffe to meet the gun-carriage, the vehicles were exchanged and each were then to return to their station.  The breeching when the [page LI] horses left Dover was properly buckled so as it fitted as it should, but when harnessed into the gun-carriage there was a bit too much play, it should have been taken up a link or so and adjusted.  When he reached the Hare and Hounds PH (this opinion was passed at the inquest) it being a steeper gradient, the gun-carriage came forward as the breeching was slack and kept knocking the hocks of the one in the shafts, which started lashing out and upset the ridden one so that they became unmanageable.  Graham is supposed to have tried to dismount, he might have been unseated, but his boots had been repaired and the width between the heel and clump [?] was just the width of the stirrup iron, and he could not free it as he jumped and his foot turned in the stirrup, leaving him head downwards with no chance to recover his position.  Both horses then dashed down the hill, ran into and broke off a lamp-post at the corner of Approach Road, breaking the gun carriage in two and leaving the limber there.  Why the one with the wheels arrived two or three minutes before the other one at Winchelsea I could never understand.

When there were rumours of War in July and early August 1914 I was on duty Castle St to Townwall St, Woolcomber St, Victoria Park to Castle St again.  There was much excitement and Cavalry Officers from Canterbury would come in late to scan the notices at the GPO, King Street.  I don’t know why unless for some reason, such notices were not exhibited there.  On the 4th August [page LII] directly after midnight Bill-posters started visiting all the hoardings with notices, A state of War exists etc etc.  I was detailed for duty that day at the bottom of Whitfield Hill as it was thought that undesirables might attempt to enter the town, “shortly to be a Fortress with a Fortress Commander”.  The Sussex Territorials were soon arriving to place a guard there but as they would know no one, whether resident or not, it was left to me to interrogate anyone I did not know and the armed guard stood aside.  When they did arrive they had to lay (officers included) where they could at night, with only a ground-sheet, it was very hot weather which was to their advantage.  Afterwards they had a hut built there.  Everyone in the town had to have an Identification Book, with photo, with the exception of the Police.  As the photos look some little while to print off, there being so many, it was not too rigidly applied at first.

I had several incidents happen when out there.  Dr Rubel was reported to be flashing lights from his windows, somebody was flashing lights in the middle of the wood on Whitfield Hill and I had to search it one night and fell over a cow lying in the field at the top.  The reports from the Outposts about lights at Dr Rubel’s got very serious, the military searched his house , his practise fell off and he was nearly frantic.

One night I asked the Officer in Charge of the Guard if he would remain at the post and detain any one he thought and send a man to whistle me as I was going to [section 008] [Page LIII] try and solve the mystery.  Two short blasts if he wanted me and I would be there in two or three minutes.  I went and laid on the Railway embankment and kept my eye on the place and soon very distinctly I saw two flashes from somewhere in the house.  I went and reported to the Officer and told him where I was going and then went to the Doctor’s house.  He was sure nothing had shone from his house so I said I wanted to see them all and find out who had been in the back of the house recently.  He said we don’t use the back since these reports.  There was he and his wife and nursemaid and two children just put to bed, no one else.  I spoke to the nurse and found she was putting the children to bed about the time I saw the light, she cried and denied all knowledge of it, so I told her to try and think of all she had done when she put the children to bed and repeat it in front of me.  I quietened her down and told her not to be frightened and I would be with her.   The children were awake and excited and everything seemed alright till she said she had got them undressed and I said:- ‘What then’, and she said ‘I put their nightgowns on’;

‘where did you get them?’

‘Out of the wardrobe.’

‘Where is that?’

‘In the other room.’

‘Did you have a light?’

‘No.’

‘Just show me’ and as soon as she opened the door I saw the cause of the trouble.  The wardrobe had a mirror, took the reflection through the open door from the front room [page LIV] and as it swung open it flashed the light out, and again when it was closed.  I asked why the windows were not covered and he said he had been visited so many times and had been advised not to use the back rooms after dark and to leave the windows bare.  Just then some cars drove up soldiers surrounded the place and two or three officers came saying the outposts had reported seeing the lights again and they were determined to sift the matter.  I spoke up, told them what I had done, and then showed them without opening the front bedroom door how it was done, but said it was dangerous to show the light as maybe someone would let off a round at it.  After they had gone the Doctor gave me a quantity of cigars and a good drink, saying ‘I’ve had no peace for weeks, Thank you, I can now rest’.

Another time whilst the officer and sergeant were visiting the outposts I was stopping and questioning all cars, and pedestrians if I wanted to.  A car with two ladies came down Whitfield Hill.  I pulled it up and asked the chauffeur where he was from and he said ‘Sandwich’, and where to? ‘Folkestone.’  ‘Have you permission to enter the Fortress?’ ‘I don’t know, I was told to drive to Folkestone.’  I opened the car door and asked the lady the same questions and when I asked her if she had permission she was very haughty and said: ‘Certainly not.  I have never been stopped anywhere before.’  I thought I detected a foreign accent, closed the door and said [page LV] to the chauffeur, ‘what nationality are these people’.  He replied: ‘you had better ask them’, so again I went to the back opened the door and said, ‘Excuse me but what nationality are you?’  She at once said “German” and to further questions said she was from Hanover, ‘and this other lady, what about her I asked, she replied ‘she is my daughter’.  I told them to get out and I called the armed Guard from his post to mount guard whilst I rang to the Police Station, when they got my message the CC himself replied, ‘don’t let them move I am putting you through to the Fortress Commander’.  I had to repeat all the conversation to him and he asked if I had their names.  I said ‘No but offered to get them’.  He said ‘don’t do that, tell the chauffeur to proceed to Folkestone with the two ladies, give me the number of the car and they will be followed to the gate on Folkestone Road, where I will arrange everything’.  When I got out I told the chauffeur to proceed to Folkestone and told the ladies they could now go as I had nothing to detain them for.  I asked if they intended returning that way and she said ‘Certainly.  I am the wife of Marshall Hall KC’ and then she got nasty saying what would happen to me when she got in touch with her husband which she would do on arriving at Folkestone.  I told the chauffeur that on his return not to wait to be challenged but to draw up at the sentry-box. When the officer returned and I told him he was wild, ‘the only time I’m away you catch two Germans and report to the Commander [page LVI] what did he say?’  ‘I told him you were out visiting the Outposts and he was quite satisfied.’  The officer stuck by my side until two or three hours later the car drew up, the lady leaned out and said ‘Thank You Officer, you only did your duty’.  I reckon she had told her husband and the intelligence officers and they had advised her to apologise.  (It was funny times, and the risks could not be taken).

When the Germans were thought to be about to overrun Paris, London Busses were hurriedly sent via Dover to rush troops to defend it, you never saw such a convoy, one behind the other, drivers choking with dust stirred up by those in front, some were damaged with the steps to the upper deck swinging, hardly any lights on them or in  the town, some had come to grief and were casualties in the country.  The dust they raised was like a dense fog.

Naval brigades were encamped in the various parks around, Broome Park, Betteshanger Park, etc etc.  One night, or very early on a Sunday morning, I got a message to go to Robsons, Traction Engine Owner, Crabble Hill and tell him to get his engines ready at once to act as transport to fetch the Naval Brigades in to Dover to embark for Belgium.  He said he could do nothing as his men were all at their homes.  I told him to give me the nearest addresses and called out one in Pioneer Road and he got the others.  The Anson Brigade and others I forget the names of [page LVII] were marching on Dover and met at the bottom of Whitfield Hill one lot having to wait to let the others pass, it was very slow as there was blocks somewhere between there and the Pier, people came out with pots of jam, apples, all sorts of edibles and eventually they sailed, landed, were ambushed, some escaped to Holland, some were captured and the remainder returned about eight days later, tired, dirty and unshaven, one had a German cap, one a German cavalryman helmet with an awful mess inside it, one an American alarm clock and I think that was all their luggage, they had been lucky to get away at all as the driver and fireman of the train they were on (believed to be Germans) had run them into an ambush and bolted.

Sir William [?] and Lady Crundall were very good to the troops, she used to bring them slab cakes weighing many pounds, nuts, fruit, cigarettes etc and at Xmas a sack of good food and good turkeys “one I believe was disposed of at Temple Ewell” for Beer that was the worst of it, they took advantage.  Sir William used to come out every night, he asked if I was teetotal and then invited me into the house, drew off a decanter of whisky (and gave me a cigar), also a syphon of soda water.  He told me I could ask the officer to have a drink, but not any of the men under any consideration.  He said it would not be right for him to ask the Officer.  I saw him almost every night and had to produce the decanter to see if it wanted replenishing.  After some months I was brought back into town again, I think some folks were jealous and said they would [page LVIII] like to go out there.

One night when the Zeppelins were over PC Kernes reported that when on the top road to Hearsney he saw something away to the North fall from the sky a long way off.  He reported it by phone but nobody believed it until a message came in saying a Zeppelin had been brought down in flames at Cuffley at the time Kernes had reported it.

I actually saw the first German plane to raid England, I was standing in the main road at the bottom of Whitfield Hill looking up at the sky at 11am Christmas Eve 1914 as I could hear a plane when in a rift between the clouds I saw a Taube (I did not know then the make of it), as it entered a bank of cloud I heard the report of our first bomb.  It fell in Terson’s garden between Leybourne Road and Victoria Park, it was just before Xmas as I remember it was said the blast blew a man from a tree cutting evergreens, and later a fruit tree was planted in the hole.

Some time later I was on night duty at Buckland, (Dick Quenden was Sergeant).  I left him about 1.30am but felt uneasy, so got my supper and went to eat it outside Mannerings Mill in the open space.  About 1.40 I could hear a plane, or planes, very high and started to go to the phone at the double, when I heard two detonations, they were at a camp at Whitfield, I heard later.  I could hear the machines were nearer so rang the station and as they replied I heard bombs dropping, they cut out at once, I heard them some more so there were more than one or two up there, later I heard they had dropped in Clarks Garden, Barton Road, Maison Dieu Place, [page LIX] several around Effingham Crescent area and Christ Church grounds.  I believe Quendon had hurried up to visit the Folkestone Road man and ran right into it, but he was not hit.  Of course they (the bombs) were of a very small type to what they were in this last war.

I remember one Whit Monday or August Bank Holiday there were crowds of people on the Sea Front, visitors who had come to see how their menfolk were getting on in training and were allowed in for that purpose.  The Syren [sic] sounded but it was no use shouting “Take Cover” till a small bomb fell in the sea by the Stone Jetty, the whistling sound of it had been enough, you wondered where they had all got to.

One morning I was told to go to two destroyers in the Granville Dock “The Amazon” and “Mohawk” with a stretcher as there were several bodies on board to be removed to the Mortuary, they had been killed in action and were lying around the torpedo tube, there was also a Dover man I knew from the Lucar and a Lieutenant M Clory from the Trawler “Stroud”.  The naval ratings carried most in white blankets, “4 men to each blanket”.  PC Riley came and helped, it rained in bucketsful.  As the Mortuary only had accommodation for three we got some planks from the Lifeboat House rearranged the slabs and laid them closely together, the worst ones being laid on the floor.  There were either 13 or 14 put in, and the Lieutenant we had to push up to the Military Hospital Mortuary in the pouring rain.

One night I saw a ship a mass of flames travelling very fast pass down the channel and turning out to sea, I made discreet [page LX] enquiries as to what it might be, because there must have been power of some sort to propel it at that speed but nobody seems to have seen or heard of it.  If they did they kept the knowledge to themselves.  It may have been an experiment before the channel was illuminated at night, all sorts of things happened then.

I saw five perhaps six drifters one afternoon putting to sea in line ahead, all at once there was a big bang and one, not the leader, was gone.  Very little of it was towed back and I don’t remember any bodies being recovered.  If my memory is good, I think it was the Clover Bank.

A speed boat lying in the outer harbour with empty petrol tanks was having something done to it, one man was inside and one just in the manhole when an explosion took place, the man at the manhole was blown high into the air like a cork from a bottle and fell, he was dead, as well as the one inside, the view was that a spanner was being used and it slipped, causing a spark that in the empty tank with its fumes still about caused the explosion.

During the 1914-18 War there were a lot of Canadian Mules and Horses employed in the Army for transport.  A pair horse waggon left the Priory Station for Archcliffe Fort and for some reason the horses bolted.  The driver thinking they were quite out of hand dropped the reins, got into the back of the waggon and dropped off.  They increased their speed down St Martins Hill and when they tried to turn into Biggin Street, failed and went right into the shop of [section 009]  [page LXI] Martin Jacobs, photographer, now the Dover Gas Office.  The door to the shop was set back in a deep doorway.  One horse was in the shop when I arrived from Worthington Street Point, and the other had two legs still on the pavement with the jagged broken plate glass window threatening to disembowel it.  I managed to get that one adrift without too much more trouble and asked someone of the bystanders to hold it, it was still kicking occasionally and then I went into what had been a very nice shop, the partitions were kicked into holes adjoining the side passages of the shop, a wreck.  It was vicious, as the noise caused by its plunging on the wooden floor terrified it.  I managed to get a hold of the rein I had cut adrift from the other horse and then it reared and pawed the air two or three times, it was most dangerous in such a confined space and I could not get to back it out of the door as it was not as if it was straight out into the street, but into the deep set-back door.  PC Chapling, (War-time Constable) then came and after a lot of trouble and difficulty (and advice from plenty of know-alls outside the window frame) we managed to back it out through the door; directly it got off the wooden flooring it became quieter.  The driver then showed up, he would not come near till then, and I handed the horse over to him.  I asked where the other horse was and was told it had broken away and gone down town.  The van was later taken away undamaged. [page LXII] Some of the harness I had cut but I heard nothing about it.  I heard the other horse had raced to its stable at Archcliffe without collision.

I was on Commercial Quayabout 2.30 one morning in a doorway, it was pouring with rain, when I saw a man I knew with two large cans of petrol, (not cans like we were used to) but taller and not so wide, in fact until I stopped him I did not know what it was.  He said he had found them on Shakespeare Beach and was taking them home.  I knew the sort of man he was so told him I should take him to the Boom House, South Pier.  I quite thought he had stolen it.  He said ‘all the boatmen have got a lot down there it is washing ashore’, so I took him to the Customs Office and was told there was a deck cargo from a French vessel floating in, it was a nuisance to them, but they took the two cans and the man told he had better not get any more without surrendering it.  I then went to the boatmens huts on Shakespeare Beach.  There were several boatmen about, which was unusual at that early hour, but I got no reply to my queries about Petrol until I said the Customs were sending over and I should remain till they arrived.  Which was quite untrue.  Then I was shown stacks of cans which had been slavaged during the night which they said they had intended to take home.  I pointed out the dangers and warned them not to move it and then went again to the Boom House.  A guard was put on it, but I don’t think they got much for the salvage as I enquired later and was told it fetched very little when sold.

The Channel Patrol was burning [page LXIII] flares at night so that the channel was illuminated and no surface ships of any sort could pass without being challenged and submarines could not surface.  All ships had to keep to a secret course to avoid the minefield, but submarines did get through by keeping close behind other ships.  It was a very dangerous procedure, but the only other exit from their bases was via Scotland to the Atlantic.  The Germans constructed a number of light draught destroyers which they knew could pass over the minefield at Spring Tides without being damaged or lost.

One night they suddenly attacked the Patrol just past here with quite heavy guns, our boats only had one little gun in the bows of each.  They scattered but suffered casualties, some found themselves under the cliffs on the French coast, they did their best to slip away and eventually those that got away, returned home.  In the meantime the gunfire having been seen the “Drake” and “Swift” two destroyers lying to the East of the Harbour, put to sea to intercept and engage the raiders, which they eventually did, the flashes and reports of the engagement being easily seen and heard from the Sea Front.

Next day I had to go to the Market Hall which was turned into a Mortuary (It had been used before for that purpose when the SS Maloga [Malaga?] was sunk and many bodies landed).  The Naval lorries drew up in Queen Street with both German and English Ratings quite a number in each lorry.  The public were so pressing, even women holding up children to see, that I called out several special constables (shopkeepers in that area) to keep the crowd back to Market Lane and King Street.  I assisted in placing them in their positions, Germans [page LXIV] all together and our own men, altogether 160 of them in rows.  All papers had to be very carefully handled, the Germans were stripped and searched, I only remember one that was injured, all the others were drowned, but our men were all injured or scalded to death, most of them were below when a shell burst inboard fracturing a main steam pipe and they were unable to escape.  They looked so black and dirty that I sent to Leney’s Brewery for a bucket of hot water to make them more presentable, but the steam had so permeated them with the black of the stokehold that it was useless.

Mr J Parsons was the undertaker.  When I was first there PC Noel, Market Inspector and I think another were there, but I think it was on the Saturday morning Councillor Gatehouse knocked on the door when I was alone and asked if he could have a look in.  I let him in and after a look he said ‘I wouldn’t have your job for a pension, don’t you have any stimulant’.  I said ‘No, I can manage alright’.  As he was leaving he said “Couldn’t you do with a little drop of whisky”, so I said ‘Yes’.  I thought he was going to get me a drink but he did not return and thought he had forgotten it.  I got on with the job and after a while I heard a tapping on the door and knew it was the CC with his cane.  I went to the door and reported “All Right, Sir” he stepped just inside the door and closed it saying:- ‘have you had Councillor Gatehouse here’.  I told him “Yes” he wanted to have a look round.  ‘What did you tell him?’ He asked, but all I could say was “I don’t remember telling him anything”.  He said “Think again” but I gave the same answer.  He said, ‘Didn’t you tell him you ought to [page LXV] have a bottle of whisky on that job’.  Then I understood, and told him I had not said so, but that he had asked me if I couldn’t do with a little drop of whisky and I said “Yes”.  He replied ‘If you want any stimulant get it at the Walmer Castle and charge it to me, don’t go telling Councillors what you want’.

J Parsons came down and looked at the Germans, they were laying naked on straw with sheets of brown paper for covering, he said he was getting on as quick as he possibly could and hoped to deliver the coffins on Sunday for the funeral on Monday.  Our men were to be buried on Tuesday unless taken away by friends for interment elsewhere.  The coffins started to arrive on Sunday and Mr Parsons said he had no one to help coffin them.  I told him I could start on them, to send me a bit of webbing and if he wanted anything to cover them send that also.  The coffins were all good English timber, “but green”, not seasoned.  There was no coffin plates and I told him there should be, or I should have to chalk the name that was on the label attached to each ones foot for identification purposes.  He did as soon as he could get them painted, have name plates on each, he sent a roll of material and I cut it as I wanted it to serve as a shroud.  He was very pleased about my assistance and told me he would see me later.

I was told that if any shipmates of the deceased wanted to see them to let them in.  They must have told each other for I was continually answering the door and then noticed they were also viewing the Germans, on the other side of the Hall.  I went to tell them to keep away from there when I noticed that the buttons of the German’s clothing.   I forgot [page LXVI] to say: Each man on being stripped had his name taken from his clothing, (every article of which had his name in indelible ink) and it was written on a label attached to his toe, the clothing being made into a bundle and laid at his feet, whether coffined or not, until the funeral and of course some of the buttons were exposed.  I saw that the shanks of some of the buttons were still attached to the cloth, the other or top part being wrenched off I suppose as souvenirs.  I cleared the lot out and refused any more admission.

I had got several coffined nicely and was just having a bit of tea when the cane tapped on the door again.  I thought someone had complained and thought how best to answer and went to the door.  The CC and Inspector were there.  I reported ‘All Right, Sir’, and told him I had had to clear the hall owing to souvenir hunters, he said ‘Quite Right, what are you doing now’ (I was still in my shirtsleeves).  I told him I was having a bit of tea and had coffined several to oblige Mr Parsons, neither of them wanted to come any farther.  Just then there was a noise and they asked what it was, I said ‘they’ve been drowned and I suppose in moving them I’ve upset them and the air is coming out’.  They did not stop long.

Admiral Beacon sent a wreath of Red Flowers, I don’t remember if they were roses or not with a card attached.  ‘A tribute to a brave enemy.’  (They certainly were, to brave the channel knowing every vessel was their enemy) but the Press caused public comment by saying the inscription was ‘A tribute to a brave and gallant enemy’, [page LXVII] that was not so.

When the funeral took place I could not see into the Market but was told that the commander of the Drake “Evans” attended the funeral.  I was busy helping to lift the coffins on to the shoulders of Naval Ratings to carry to a trolley, four coffins on each trolley.  As there was only the one wreath and only one Officer, Von Arnim, and the coffins were numbered, I put 1-2-3-5 on the first one [trolley] and 4-6-7-8 on the next and so on, so that Von Arnim who was No 5 would with the wreath be on the first one.  On our men’s side of the Hall someone had put Arum Lilies and other flowers with a big inscription, A tribute to our glorious dead.  Our men were I think without exception buried in their uniform, it would not have been right otherwise as they were so heavily scalded, I mean the majority were.  There was only one body from the “Swift”.  The coffins were sent from London as there was not sufficient timber or labour available to make them in time, they looked all right but were thin and once you screwed them down and for some reason (and the body presentable) you opened it again, it was difficult to get the screws to hold.  All bodies of course were searched and whatever was found kept separate and with the name of the deceased attached was sent to the station to be forwarded to the admiralty to distribute or hand over to the rightful claimants.

One woman with a young lad wanted to see one of the deceased.  I looked and saw his coffin was not [page LXVIII] marked “NP”, (that was a mark where the body was not presentable).  I opened it.  She said nothing till I was about to close it down and then said “did he have any money”.  I told her his property would go to the admiralty and she would no doubt hear from them.  I was starting to screw it down and she came back and said “Did he have a leg belt, he used to wear one’, so I had to remove the lid and then found he did have a leg belt with money, so removed it and sent it to the Station.  Any other bodies I touched after that I made sure had no leg belt.  There were so many relatives who wanted to see their dead and so many coffins marked NP that it was a heartbreak job to try and explain fully to them, I found the best way was to say, ‘Do please try and agree not to see them, remember them as you knew them and also that they have died in action.  It might be that you would be sorry, I cannot refuse to do as you ask but others here whose grief is as bad as your own have all agreed to that’. There was not one marked NP opened.  One man I felt so sorry for, it was an only child and his wife was prostrate at  home and she had made him promise to see him.  I did not see that one myself, all was so mangled that it was sewn in canvas in a flag, and that was the only one I did not see.  I explained as gently as I could and he quite understood.  His trouble was what he would tell his wife when he returned home.  There were several RC [Roman Catholics] [page LXIX] and if a Priest was not about I advised them to see him first, that seemed to quieten their excitability and they would come back altogether in a different frame of mind.  Most of these relatives had had long train journeys, perhaps been about all night and were cold and hungry as well.  It was a very sad job.

Five of the Germans were proper sons of Anak, Giants.  One had a pair of felt overshoes about size 20 I should think, and they were kept in the Police Museum in the CC’s office for a long time.  I only got eight rings from the bodies though most looked as if they had had one, perhaps knowing they were going into action they had left them behind.  I think three of the boats were claimed as sunk, I had bodies from four but perhaps one had fallen overboard, nearly everyone had a petrol lighter and what few coins they had looked like nickel but after a year or so they were rusty iron with a very thin nickel coating.  One had the Iron Cross Ribbon.  I had several buttons as souvenirs as all the clothing was ordered to be destroyed, also a small bit of Iron Cross Ribbon, and about an inch of gold braid from Von Arnim’s [probably Bernd von Arnim which dates this event to April 1917] coat, I think the officer was one of the shortest of them.

We had a small submarine beached opposite Waterloo Crescent and it laid there for a long time.  Another one got on to the Goodwins [Goodwin Sands, a sandbank].  I don’t know just what happened but we had a body with a Kapok Vest with nickel plated horns on the back fashioned as if to hold [page LXX] a rounded body, like a barrel, we had that at the station.  One theory was that it had contained an Oxygen container for use when the wearer would be under water attending to mines, but of course that is one theory, but they tried all manner of gadgets.

Sometime after this I was handed at the Office two half-crowns, so I asked what it was for and was told it was from Mr Parsons for helping with the bodies, I would not have cared if I had nothing, but 5/- seemed a bit on the close side.  A week or two later I met Johnny, he waved his hand and was passing on so I said ‘thanks for the 5/- Mr Parsons’.  He was a bit deaf so he stopped, I suppose because he was not sure what he heard.  He said:- ‘What’s that’.  I said I was thanking him for the 5/-  He was wild.  ‘What 5/-‘ he said, so I said ‘what you left at the station for me’.  He thought and then said ‘I’ll see into this, I left you £2’.  I asked him not to make any fuss or I should suffer in the long run and perhaps they thought they were entitled to something, he saw my point and said he would not forget it, 35/- for some who did nothing and 5/- for the one who did the job.  They never thought I should know, or they would have acted differently.

I was at Castle North Point when the armistice was signed, troops from the Castle broke out in stolen cars packed on bonnet and roof with troops, it’s a wonder there was not accidents and it was useless to try to stop them, then [page LXXI] one got a smoke bomb and it was kicked about in Castle Street.  The only thing was to let them alone all the while they were good tempered and there was no serious offences.

Shortly after this there was a move to enquire into Police Pay etc as we were still on the small money whilst labourers were still getting big money.  A Commission sat, The Desborough Commission and we had increases of pay beyond our wildest dreams.  Then promotion was to be by examination, not seniority as it had been and getting Sergeants who could neither read or pronounce words at times and had to slur them over.  A list was put up for names of those who wished to sit for examination, mine went up and I had a few sneer and say ‘what’s the good of you trying, you won’t get through’.

On the appointed day I sat with my mother who was dying till I had to do to get there in time.  I hurried up and completed all I understood to do and then got up.  Smithers said ‘if you leave the room you’ll be disqualified’.  I said’ my mother has just died, I’ve finished my papers and surely I can go now, as I don’t intend to come in the room again’.  I went to East Street and found that mother had died at the time that I knew she had.  Both Mac [Bond] and myself passed for Sergeant and later we were both passed together again for Inspector, he had about 9 months seniority and took the first vacancy and I took the next.

I was approached and told the CC’s position was becoming vacant and it was my job, so make preparations.  I said I thought I had a malignant growth and could not entertain any thought of it.  I told Mac [Bond] and he got the job.  Then as I got no better I retired in Jan 1928.  Was operated on in Guy’s Hospital 13/4/28 for duodenal ulcer and it was a success.

Albert Baker’s diary, book one

[The following text has been transcribed from four exercise books, originally written by Albert Baker, my great-great-grandfather.  Paper was probably expensive, the exercise books were used by his children in school and Albert used up the empty space to write his journal.  The original has little punctuation and no paragraphs, both of which have been lightly added to improve readability.  Original spellings are used. Some original quotation marks have been interpreted as brackets.  Page references in square brackets refer to the original manuscript. There are still some words or sections that are unclear and await a second look.

Victoria Parkinson, March 2017.]

Introduction

I was born at Upper Lodge, Victoria Park, Dover 15th of June 1878, my father being a Constable in the Dover Borough Police Force and I was one of a large family. I joined the same Force in 1900 and retired as an Inspector in 1928; and having seen many changes in the town thought a few lines dealing with them from my earliest recollections and since would be perhaps of interest to Dovorians (and others) and would not be unwelcome to those who can remember a good deal, perhaps more, of what I shall write about about, although perhaps until reminded they may have forgotten a lot about our old town.

I am sorry I have not kept a diary so cannot give dates with any accuracy and will not attempt to include them. There may be an occurrence or two that someone will feel is not quite correct or as they remember it, but I shall put it as it seemed to me at the time and as I remember it, and will not enter into any argument as I want to write a true and clear account of what I hope will be an interesting, entertaining, and in some cases amusing story for the benefit of my readers of all ages.

I have in my possession what is known as a Centenary Pot, or white China mug, it has the words printed in gilt on a sort of scroll Sunday School Centenary 1880. Richard Dickeson. Mayor. Dover, with [page 2] two gilt rings, one top and one at bottom which was given to every Sunday school child attending a treat in Northfall Meadow in 1880.

I don’t remember receiving it, and how I came to receive it I don’t know as I was not old enough, perhaps I was taken to the treat to be with my brothers and sisters, but I do remember my brother had a hobby-horse as a present, that is my earliest recollection. All my sisters and brothers of school age had a similar pot and mother took great care of them and as they married each was handed their pot undamaged and they prized very much. Sir Richard in his earlier years (so I understood) had failed in his business but later paid all his creditors in full and became a prosperous wealthy man, he was very generous, took a great interest in town affairs and was mayor several times. He presented racing boats to the Rowing Club and did everything he possibly could to make things easier for all classes, sending out xmas gifts of grocery etc. to a large number of the inhabitants and Corporation employees.

He had a very large “Wholesale & Retail” grocery business in premises bounded by Market Lane, Queen Street and Tavernors Lane with a large bacon factory and stables in Tavernors Lane, also a Tallow-Candle Factory and stables in Market Street.

In the top left of this 1905 insurance map of Dover, you can see the R Dickeson buildings.

The smell from the candle factory in early morning was vile, but it was said you could get used to it. I never did. You could [page 3] smell it a long way off if the wind was right, it seemed one of those smells you can taste, and never disguise. All his vans were drawn by dappled grey Horses, no other colour, and were not allowed to trot and were usually in pairs, any, and every day during the week they could be seen going on journeys to neighbouring towns, villages, and camps. He also did a large business in supplying troops, camps and canteens; for hill work he always had one or two tracehorses and his horse keeper for to it that they were all well conditioned and cared for. In later years the business became the N.A.A.F.I. with main offices away from the town.

From my earliest days, I can remember the Kent Artillery Militia being embodied annually, in May, and going to the barracks at Fort Burgoyne for 28 days training, some of them were really a rough looking lot when they came up, hardly better than tramps and had a painful job too march in their boots which had been served out new and brown in colour that they had to turn black somehow. I have seen stragglers with their boots hanging around their necks and walking barefoot or sitting by the roadside, as their feet were in no condition for new boots after tramping the country. Nearly all army boots were issued brown and the men had to get them black, sometimes a long process as the leather was so greasy. Some of the men were no doubt alright, [page 4] but others would sell their shirts (greybacks) off their backs for a small sum, also bring boots out for sale to civilians, frequently not their own, and these were mostly sold in low-beer-houses or dark passages etc. but if civilians were found in possession of any Government property they would always be prosecuted, so it was risky to buy until after they were disembodied when each man received 30/- Bounty unless in debt to the Crown, also his underclothing and boots.

There is in Laureston Place a pair of semi-detached houses, the lower one of which used the be The Plough P. H. where there used to be frequent rows especially when the men were returning to barracks after an evening in the town. I have with my brother often found Tunic’s, Caps, Belts & Shirts in the early morning lying on the grass in Victoria Park where they had been dropped or thrown when the men quarrelled and fought or had a snooze and then forgot to pick them up. We would gather them up and somehow gain admission to the Fort, (the sentry being one of themselves) and try to return the articles to their rightful owners and were usually rewarded with a copper or two if they had any left after their night out, or they would promise to pay when they got it, it meant a lot to them as they would have lost everything when disembodied.

The regulars, Royal Garrison Artillery were stationed at the Castle and Infantry at the Western Heights although some Artillery [page 5]  were at the Devils Drop, or Drop Redoubt Saluting Battery when the saluting battery was shipped from the Castle for a time. I was a choir-boy at “St Mary’s in the Castle” and with boys from the married quarters, next the Keep, used to visit the Cliff Casemates and other Casemates, mostly fully occupied as barrack rooms, especially at Xmas time as the Canteen Fund supplied fare including all sorts of nuts, fruit, and poultry for all the men, many of the rooms were tastefully decorated as the men tried to out do each other. Officers and their wives would make a tour to inspect their efforts just before dinner-time and afterwards we would get surfeited with nuts etc.

The tall buckets they usually carried the tea from the cook-house to the barrack-rooms would contain beer which was also an allowance per man from the Canteen Fund. Viz:- profits from trading: only essential duties were carried out after the Church Parade. As boys we could go almost anywhere without let or hindrance although some of the roads there always marked “Closed to the Public” we simply just walked where we thought and often went through Pencester’s Gallery, Drawbridge and Tunnel to the Northface Meadow but that is, and was, reserved for Military use only.

There have been many notable Generals Viz: Generals Newdigate, Seymour, Montgomery Moore, Butler etc etc in residence at Constable’s Tower when in charge of the S. E. Command and I have known most [page 6]  of them very well by sight, some would nearly always be on horseback with an orderly escort from one of the cavalry regiments at Shorncliffe or Canterbury riding a short distance behind with Lance & Pennon, riding in true Cavalry fashion, and who was quartered at the Castle for their duties, stabling near the Spur Battery.

Soldiers did not then wear khaki and for fatigue duty had hard shiny canvas overalls. Each regiment had its own particular dress with facings and pipings and looked very smart with leather belt pipe-clayed with crest on the fastening and the various decorations and headdresses. The Artillery wore a Royal Blue, the best tunic had brass buttons, about 8 in centre down front and 6 at the tails. 3 each side, each impressed with a cannon, on the stock around the neck about an inch each side of the opening, a brass grenade bursting and down the side of the trousers leg a scarlet insertion of red cloth about 1 1/2 inches wide. A Forage cap shaped like a pill-box about 2 inches deep with a yellow band about the half of its depth on the lower side and a yellow covered button in the centre of the flat crown with patent leather chinstrap and a swagger came usually with the Regimental Crest completed the walking out outfits, the cap was always worn on one side and with the hair plastered down to be formed over the forehead into the quiff some of the men were real smart soldiers, and of course there was discipline in those [page 7]  days to keep them up to the mark.

I have frequently seen a fatigue party with a huge heavy two wheeled barrow or cart with wheels big enough for a tip-cart come down to the town for goods with drag files attached to the wheel caps to hold it back with one man in the state which were very heavy and then with the goods obtained the whole party pulling straining and sweating to get it up the hill again, why a horse was not employed I could never make out unless it was to get the men fit and strong for hauling the guns as they were big fellows mostly training for Mountain Train Batteries in India etc. it was hard work.

Another thing that would be interesting today would be to see the troops of various infantry regiments from the Western Heights on a Route March for training purposes, each with a barrel shaped watercraft usually drawn by a mule and Red Cross waggon at the rear of each regiment. In the van of each Regt a small body of Pioneers, usually these were big hefty men wearing leather aprons, mostly with full bristling beards and looked able to deal with any obstruction. I think the beards were to make them look fierce, they each carried some tool or implement such as a Saw, Axe, Crowbar, Crosscut, etc, they were the first ranks after the band, C. U. and other officers mostly mounted and followed by the regiment in columns of four with non-coms on the outside. Recruits also prisoners [page 8] at the rear, not carrying arms.

On returning the Bands, Drum & Fife, Brass, or Bagpipes could be heard long before the troops arrived coming down the Hill. At Easter there would be combined operations and a big Easter Monday review of Volunteers (now Territorials) who came in thousands from London on Friday, Saturday and Sunday and would be accommodated at various schools, Imperial Hotel (now the Burlington Liverpool St) which was standing unoccupied for many years, and other places. Boys with their eye to business would be early outside the different places acting as bootblacks and get quite a lot of customers. Very early on Monday morning the big guns were on the move drawn by 6-8-10 horses, the best shire horses the town could provide and harnessed to a gun they had all their work in getting up the hill as the manoeuvres were usually held between Walmer and Dover but sometimes in the Hougham district.

I remember a heavy and severe snowstorm one year during the March Past one Easter Monday near Tapley Farm, Elms Vale Road (where the new sports ground is now) and seeing the London Scottish Volunteers in kilts racing down the hills through the gorse to Fall In for the March Past. They must have been scratched about.I think it was the Duke of Cambridge took the salute, whoever it was must have been cold sitting on horseback whilst the men in fours marched past.

At Easter, Tommy Lee’s Fair with round-a-bouts, swinging boats and [page 9]  Cocoanut [sic] shies from Ashford always arrived on the previous Thursday and finished in the Northfall Meadow, later in Castle Hill Farm grounds and later still at the junction of Elms Vale Road & Folkestone Road opposite the drinking fountain on Dave Curling’s [?] ground of Priory Farm. Tommy & his wife were very short and fat & jolly, were much liked and did very good business with the troops and townspeople.

Maidstone House (Dr Waughs) was the last house in the town on the right hand side of Folkestone Road with the exception of the Flint Houses at the water trough, Gordon Lodge and the top of what is now Vale View Road and some farm buildings at Priory Farm, all the rest was pasture or arable land. There were no houses between Belgrade Gardens and Shakespeare Road, all that land right back to the hills being under cultivation ( I think the property of the Coleman Brothers Crabble Hill) and had a rough bank steep and broken about studded with Elders, Brambles & Nettles about two thirds of it is now known as Westbank Gardens, then Lindisfarne at the bottom of Shakespeare Road and a few small houses to the Orange Tree P.H. and Dovers Diamond Brewery, then four small cottages on the hill and the Hare and Hounds P.H., no more buildings at all facing Folkestone Road.

On the right of Folkestone Road from the junction at Elms Vale Road no houses [page 10] whatever, only fields for cattle grazing where Church Road, Lascelles Road and Malmains Road are now. Castle Hill was much the same as now until you reach the hedge above the zigzag. There was no hedge then only a rough bank down to the old Castle Hill Road and that was very rough for travelling with patches of bushes on the banks, Elder trees, deep runnels in the chalk roads where the rains washed down into a pit at the top of Launceston[?] Place to catch the stormwater and gravel so that the latter was able to be dug out instead of going into the drains, another smaller one is still in existence close to the top entrance to Connaught Park. I know because my younger sister fell in trying to get out a wooden betby[?] Dutch doll that she saw and I got her out.

The zigzag was made in hard times in the early 80s to help the unemployed, that and top portion of the Park. My father had his vegetable garden there, where the entrance to the Park is and it had a five-barred gate. At the top of Connaught Road, we used to call it Waterworks Hill there were two cottage set back well into the bank close to the top gates of Connaught Park and overlooking the grass covered reservoirs of the Waterworks. I have had several arguments about these cottages and now have in my possession a very old photo showing them in the position I had claimed, [page 11] one cottage was occupied by someone named Hogbin and he used to keep an eye on father’s garden and pigstyes (sic) during his absence, or when we boys were about as that was when carrots used to disappear.

I don’t remember the Toll-gate a few yards down the hill from Castle Hill Farm but I do remember seeing the wooden posts still in position for the fencing on the verge next to Northfall Meadow to stop anything passing without paying Toll when the gate was in use. The pond at Castle Hill Farm was the usual place for skating during hard weather as well as the longer one at Frith Farm.

Tobogganing down Castle Hill from the extreme top right down into Castle Street during and after heavy snowfalls was a practice from early morning till late at night, sometimes all night, and causing complaints from Victoria Park as there was so much screeching and noise, horse traffic became impossible as the surface became like glass and the only thing to stop it, and did so later, was for the Council to send tip-carts of clinker and cinders put down very thickly in bells about 6-9 ft wider at intervals of about 40 yards. I have seen troops with two sleds with a long ladder fixed between them and quite a number of men sitting on the ladder rush down the hill at express speed but they usually came to grief at the first bend just above Victoria Park there or the one just below No 1 Victoria Park. Each year there were accidents, some very serious and eventually the practice was stopped altogether in 1892-3. Sometimes the slower sleds were overrun by faster ones and got out of hand, all sorts of things would be used as sleds, teatrays etc. [page 12] with no way of controlling their run.

On Queen Victoria’s birthday a Feu-de-joi would be fired from the ramparts around the Castle, overlooking the town. Infantry marched over from the Western Heights would be lined up in double ranks at noon. First: 7 rounds from the saluting battery at “Monkeys Point” near the Officers Mess in the Castle, then the rattle of independent firing from rifles or carbines, starting near Canons Gate, from rank to Constables Tower and returning by rear rank to starting point, the men remaining ready with firearms pointing skywards whilst one Verse of the National Anthem was played by massed bands, then another 7 rounds from the battery, during which the troops reloaded and the process repeated until 21 Guns, and three volleys of small arms fire had been fired, then deep silence till the G.O.E. (with his subordinates then in full war paint, cockades of feathers, etc.) shouted out at the top of his voice. Remove Helmets, three cheers for Her Majesty the Queen. Helmets were put over the muzzles of the carbines and as each cheer was given they were raised up at arms length. In those days every man was entitled to a pint of beer after being dismissed.

As the troops were withdrawn from the ramparts there was a rush of boys to pick up any discharged cartridges that had been dropped and there were always some, they were made of thickness of paper or cardboard with the top turned in the only metal being the end containing the percussion cap, if among us we found enough to make a “blue devil” as it was called we made a heap of powder, damped it into a stiff paste, ran a train of dry powder to a distance and fired it: Result a big [page 13] puff of smoke, no report, it was a dangerous game if too close when the explosion took place.

I remember a Vault in Hubert Passage and had read the inscription on a small stone close to the ground many times “Entrance to Butterworth” but did not give it a second thought until one morning on the way to school men were digging up the ashphalt path in a semi-circle to receive the last for interment there. I told some of my schoolmates and at 12 o’clock we ran in a body of several and found a hole covered with boards, the men having left for dinner, some of the more daring boys went down a short ladder standing in the hole just below the surface which the men had been using whilst I was to give the alarm and help them up if anyone came, no one did come and I then said I would go down if they would tell me if anyone approached; as soon as I got to the bottom the boards were replaced and I could hear them running away down the passage. I climbed the short ladder and tried to lift and move aside a plank with my head but the ladder slipped on the wet limewash that had been slopped about when the sides of the hole had been whitewashed to make it look clean for the interment and I fell to the bottom, just then I heard someone slowly coming up the passage so kept quiet hoping they would pass by, but no, a board was lifted and I don’t know who was most surprised, in was my Sunday School Supt. W Austin of the firm of Austin of Lewes: he said what are you doing down there and I replied:- some boy threw my cap down Sir, he held the ladder and helped me get out and questioned [page 14] me as to what I had done in the vault and if I has been under the Church at all and after a serious lecture I was allowed to go. I often wondered in after life when he was a councillor and I saw him, if he remembered it.

Old St James’ Church had many old charities for the benefit of parishioners (I believe more than any other church in the town) and at given periods a Bread Charity was advertised and distributed from the Vestry Hall adjoining the Church when aged parishioners could be seen, some with pillow-cases to carry the bread away, there were also Charity Coals and during the winter months a load of 1 cwt [hundredweight, 112 pounds, around 50kg] Bags of coal was drawn round the parish accompanied by a bell-man who rang his bell and then shouted out as loud as he could. Charity Coals, if one had been successful and obtained a free ticket from a subscriber (most of the local gentry and forms were subscribers) they would present the ticket and 2d [two pence, approx 1p] To the bellman and in exchange get a cut of coal delivered, no one to receive more than one a week.

There were also Soup Tickets to be obtained free from subscribers entitling the holder to a quart of soup from the Soup Kitchen in Younders[?] Court at noon with a small loaf about 1lb. Children would be released from school in time to fetch and take it home. The different receptacles used by various families to fetch the soup was interesting, handleless jugs, old cracked washhand jugs with sometimes lip and edges missing and in some cases where there was a big family they wanted and had very big containers pressed into service. Where have all these Charities [page 15] and Legacies to the parish gone, since the parish is destroyed.

Opposite Old St James’ Church toward what is now the top of St James’ St and about where the Public Convenience stands, stood a large house occupied by Dr Parsons next door to Stilwells & Harbys Office the house had a basement and a large sunken area in St James’ St but the front door also in the same street was reached by a low step or two and a flagged pavement as the house itself set back several feet from the street, the area was protected by heavy iron railings, set on a dwarf wall  which continued on a rounding bend into Woolcomber Street with garden to a depth of about 90ft [90 feet, about 27m] At the end of the railings was Dixon’s shop. “Greengrocers & Wood & Coal Dealer”.  (Then the King William 3rd or 5th PH (I am not sure which) kept by someone named Holt, then “Broads” the baker and J Busseys Coal Store, then a narrow passage with high walls leading into Upper Townwall Street now called Clarence Place [Street written above Place in the manuscript], the wall next the Imperial Hotel was later removed, the Hotel (later the Burlington) I had never known occupied as an Hotel but it afterwards had a resident caretaker Police Sergt. Paul Hanson who lived there with his family for some years.)

Mr Dixon who was short and very thick set was lamplighter and extinguisher for my home area also for other areas adjoining, he used to puff and blow hurrying up the hill so as to get all lighted up by dark, and again to get them all out by dawn. During the Winter we heard him go up to the highest lamp overlooking and illuminating Victoria Park Mews as there is a high wall with drop that would be dangerous in the dark [page 16] and back again to light, I think four more on the edge of the grass in Victoria Park, we knew his footsteps and were often awakened in the early morning by his heavy boots, (there were no rubber heels in those days) almost at the sun coming down and turning into the park. In snowy or bad weather it was a difficult job, he carried a plain sodden pole with an elongated or tubular perforated brass top about a foot long fitted on closely, containing a lighted candle, he pushed “on” the tap with it and then lifted a small hinged flap as he pushed his pole inside against or near the burner and ignited the gas as it escaped. There was no incandescent lighting, just the old-fashioned ordinary fish-tail burner, but still it was a light.  Often the candle would get blown out in rough weather and he would ask mother’s permission to come in to relight it.  I think the Gas Co. provided the safety matches, otherwise with the ordinary matches then in common use the Tandsticker he would never have got it alight.  The Tandsticker had a coating of sulphur about a third of its length and the head dipped in a red composition, would strike almost anywhere and then be held in cupped hands till the sulphur was burned and the wood alight, not nice smelling if you got a sniff, most labouring men struck them on their buttocks. Extinguishing was easier as the lamp being alight the tap could be seen and be easily turned off.

Opposite Dr Parsons top-left  of St James Street was Tristons[?]Bakers shop adjoining the entrance to Castle Place and​ on the lower side of the opening “Coppens”Carpenter [page 17] with side premises as workshops.  About 60ft [60 feet, approx 17m] into Castle Place on the left and facing the back of St James’ Street was a row of cottages, then a few more facing Castle Place and another opening with a row of cottages each side.  They were all of the same pattern, a basement with tiny yard approached by stairs from the front door, a front room and I believe two bedrooms, the approaches were clean with asphalt or flags but I don’t think the first row was fully paved as I remember Hollyhocks there.  I don’t  want to exaggerate but I think there must have been well over 60 houses there.  When they pulled the place down the road was widened to what it is now and for years Transfields Circus, a temporary wooden erection used the area till later it was built on for the Oxygen Company and is now a showroom & filling station for motorists.

On the “E” [East] side the high wall was altered and built up for Sir Wollaston Knocker, Town Clerk, who lived as Castle Hill House.  There used to be a gasometer at the extreme top of Liverpool Street and close to the cliff under “Shoulder of Mutton Battery” (entrance from Castle Hill) and another gasometer in Fectors Place where the East Kent Garage now stands and Mr Lockwood was the first road foreman I knew, he was a live wire, always busy, and an asset to the town, pity there were not a few more like him today, his wife kept a small sweet shop in Woolcomber Street, St James’ St until this [page 18] last war with its shelling & bombing was always a busy street with soldiers & wives coming and going so Snargate Street which was the shopping centre at that time.  There was the Golden Cross, Bell Inn, Fox and Red Lion PHs all of which are now closed.  The Red Lion like the Lord Nelson in St James’s Lane were Common Lodging Houses.  The Red Lion Licensee Mr Dane had a rough cobbled yard with gate where anyone travelling with a barrow or knife grinding machine etc etc could put it, next door in St James’s Lane and adjoining were 3-4 small cottages and then quite a large house facing up Flying Horse Lane, continuing to the open brook between Flying Horse Lane & Dolphin Lane were six cottages now used an a coal store  by Fremlins.    Opposite the Red Lion at the bottom left corner of St James’s Street was a very old and picturesque house latterly known as “Chatwins” bird shop.  It was said the Dover-London Mail Coach used to turn that corner, if so, the driver must have been a wizard with the ribbons.  Many artists has [sic] sat and sketched and painted it, but it went in the shelling.

Townwall Street was almost a cul-de-sac as upper Townwall Street now known as Clarence Street above the backway to the Fox PH ended in only a very narrow passage into Woolcomber Street and the passage through Arthurs Place to St James’s Street, another next to Eriths  stables and only wide enough for one at a time, had no name that I know of but we always referred to it as Bogeys Alley.   The top buildings were mostly Eriths, later [page 19] Gibbs Stables and “Holmes”, Painters Workshops.  The Susan PH & Granville were blown away and the whole area at present is derelict.  A small shop next the Granville kept by Mrs Davies used to do a good trade with the gentry for poultry, pork & vegetables and a small fish shop next to the  Robin Hood PH kept by Mrs Spise had a good connection with the gentry.  A sturgeon in a glass case attracted my eye and I had a hope of seeing a fresh one but I never have, you could see things that today the younger generation never see, or very seldom.  Fancy a huge codfish known as crimped cod hanging up by the tail with the cutlets already crimped and separate, only the backbone to be cut through.  That was done by suspending a freshly caught cod by the tail, the fish apparently dead the folds and flukes were then plain to see and incisions made between each fold, the cut nerves causing the crimp.  How about “Crusted Whiting”, in great demand are lime, seldom seen now, the whiting was skinned eyes removed and the tail passed through the orbits, after skinning the fish had a silvery appearance and were sometimes called Silver Whiting.  Then again, when did you last see Fennell on a Fishmongers stall, many have never heard of it but it was always to be seen during Mackerel season, it grew wild on the shore and cliffs.  Again: where are the Whelks, I don’t just mean mud whelks imported into the town for bait, but the deep sea Whelks caught in the trawl 6” long or more, tender, tasty and clean [page 20] no sandbags to get rid of, I should like to take them again.

On Nov or Dec evenings there was most times a strong smell of sprats frying, often they were sold at 3d per hundred [approx. 1p per hundred], long hundred 120;  now they are about 10d [4p] per lb, how many pounds in  120 I wonder.  It makes you think.  Eastbrook Place had a rather bad knocking about.  Mifs [Miss] Kentisks [?] garden as it used to be known, latterly known as Wyham House, occupied by F Davis is a wreck, there were lovely fruit trees there, I have sampled them as a boy, including the Mulberries, there are not a lot of mulberry trees in the town, now mostly old and iron bound to keep them from falling apart.   Harold Cottage has been repaired but the new St James Church I understand is too far gone to be repaired, if so, it means both churches, boys, girls and Infant Schools, Vestry Hall & Parish Hall all wiped out and nearly all the houses in the parish as well.  From St James Church to Saswell Street was a hedged allotment garden, then two houses, more allotments and then the Catholic Church.  Father  Lewis was the R.C. Priest for many years, he was rather small in stature and frequently would come by himself for a walk through Victoria Park, he seemed to like to be by himself.

At the back of New St James Church now called Harold Passage (to us known as Lights Lane as the Reverend Light used to live at the rectory at the bottom) was a rough stinking passage with 3-4 shorts [sic] flights of steps and several buttresses which extended nearly across [page 21] the path and was nearly every night and day used as a lavatory, it was a disgrace until the buttresses were removed, lamps places on top of the wall a longer flight of steps put in at the bottom and the path surfaced and made good.  Lauriston House was occupied by the Rev Hammond.  I know he had no living but occasionally stood in at Charlton Church.  I think he was well off financially, he took snuff, and I believe was a single man.  He had a lovely Cherry Apple tree just inside the gate.  I’ve had some, and I think it was there I first saw Medlars.  He used a bath chair with an attachment of light iron for shafts to fit a donkey to be harnessed to and accompanied by an old ostler named Pooley who walked at the head of the donkey and held its bridle.  They would often be seen taking the air.  The donkey was stabled in the building just inside the gate in the wall at the top of Lauriston Place.  I think Pooley had a room there to live in.

There were many notable characters in the town I could speak of but even if some things are amusing I think I shall skip it.   Frith Road as I first remember it was a number of deep excavations where the County school stands and on the opposite side where St Alphege Rd and Avenue Road are it had rough wide spaced boards fencing and was being grubbed up for [page 22] flint stones by a man named Robson, always referred to as Cocky Robinson and the ground was excavated as far as, and up to, a high wall in Barton Road enclosing a garden and orchard of Barton Farm, there are not many stones left in that land as flints fetched a good price for road repairing.  The farm house itself set rather a long way back from the road and faced Barton Road, approached by a farm track road, grass at the sides, big horse-chestnut trees near the highway and each side of a five barred gate, it was just about15-20 yds beyond what is now Beaconsfield Avenue.  On the opposite side of the road were two old farm cottages with fields behind and a rough track as far up as the railway embankment, no other building whatever on either side of the road which was very narrow, a footpath led down and round the farm (about where Limes Road is now) from Barton Road to Barton Path then running left to the old footbridge, now replaced by the road bridge Beaconsfield Avenue there was no path to Cherry Tree Lane as the meadow ran right down to the Dour, sheep usually grazing there, on the other side of the Dour was a rather sunken area sometimes flooded, it was later used as a refuse tip, levelled up and later built on by Mr Warren.

Barton Road and Buckland Avenue as now known was a narrow third class road with allotment gardens on the N. E. side approached [page 23] in most cases by rough made steps made by the occupier and were quite high and steep in places as the bank rose almost sheer, there was a depression opposite Cherry Tree Lane so that a cart could go up the incline.  On the left after passing Cherry Tree Lane were level gardens fenced in, till one reached Willow-Walks, with its backwater from the dam at Mannerings Mill where most old Dover boys have carried a jampot to capture & take home minnows.  Then passing Buckland Farm we come to Dodds Lane at the junction of which with Crabble Hill was what I was told the Toll-house, (I never saw any Tollgate) it had a very big clock dial plain & flat to the wall, if I remember rightly the occupier was named Bowles an ex-policeman.  After passing under the bridge was an opening on the left hand side by the embankment to allow animals to get in to pasturage, a high hedge obscured the view of the meadow later used as a Nursery by W Kemp and near the road much later houses were built combining into Crabble Road.  On the right after passing the Gate P. H. was rough ground, no Pioneer Road or houses at all.  On to Crabble Meadows.  No Athletic Ground or Cricketers P. H. just a path only, with a click gate about halfway which we as children always raced to so as to push it to and fro for one at a time to pass, there was always a large hollow tree stood out in [page 24] the meadow between the path and railway that always seemed to me to hold some secret but owing to the field being fenced [?] I never satisfied myself about it.

The two cottages at the top of Bunkers Hill were there but nothing else.  Coming down London Rd after seeing the yew in Buckland Churchyard that had been dug up and moved and still lived, although old, we saw the remains of Hardings Brewery, next to Mannerings picturesque old flour mill the machinery of which was later modernised and is still in full production & next again past the opening to Lorne Road the lovely old-fashioned house with large garden, stables and ostlers quarters with semicircular drive in to front door and was occupied by Dr Ross, down to the crossroads by the Eagle P. H. where it is said the last public execution in Dover took place, then on to the Maison Dieu Hall and another fine old house recently used as a Surveyors Office, past the Salutation P. H. spoken of in the Kentish Register of 1793 when the landlord said he had 5 ankers [approx. 37.8 litres] of cains [?], he was offered a £5 note for some but he declined saying he would take gold but not paper in exchange and so back home.

Another walk we used to take on Sunday evenings, if fine was to Crowhill and Swingate.  Father in tall silk hat, frock coat, Bandana silk handkerchief (which I still have) spring side boots, Malacca Walking Stick with thick Antler horn handle with heavy silver band, Meerchaum and Amber pipe, heavily mounted in silver and smoking (not a cigar) but rank 3d [page 25] per oz “shag” tobacco.  I can smell it now, beastly stuff.

Mother who in those days was on the plump side wearing a long gold chain twice round her neck and reaching to her waist with a small gold watch in pocket on breast and wearing a very large cameo gold mounted broach, a smart bonnet with almost always an Aignette which I thought very smart, nearly always a black dress with a bustle, which was the fashion, a veil hanging to her chin level, a small tippet or at time a small feather “boa” mostly made of cocks feathers.  There was quite a procession once we had got going, the perambulator was a three wheeled wooden affair, two large wooden wheels at sides and a smaller one in front with iron tyres like a miniature tip-cart, (no rubber tyres then) not much room to lay a baby in, it was for one sitting up, but at the front a toddler could sit if too tired to walk, with its legs dangling.  We would take the Guston Road, at the junction of that road with that to Fort Burgoygne on the left hand corner was a low one story [sic] tarred hut where the shepherd (name Limnell) to W Baldwin, Castle Hill Farm lived, he had two or three boys and a crippled wife or housekeeper, we used as schoolboys to make fun of one of the boys, perhaps not so brilliant as he might be, more to our shame, but I suppose boys are cruel sometimes, he never took offence and I have when thinking of my schooldays often felt sorry about it [page 26]

The hut was little better than a pigstye for anyone to live in.  After we had passed the hut there were no buildings at all except the Fort itself inside the trenches and after passing the Fort we crossed the Parade Ground (now enclosed for “Duke of Your” school) making towards Crowhill and looking about for mushrooms as grew there very freely in their proper season.  After passing the cottages at Crow Hill we turned right to reach Swingate P. H. without touching Guston.  Sometimes we would have a few peas, a turnip or swede or a few ears of wheat rub it out between his hands, blow on it to winnow it and tell mother to open her mouth, she used to have a bit of a job to bite or chew it.  On reaching the Swingate P. H. father would have a pint of beer 2d, mother ½pt and there was the old stone bottle of Ginger Beer for us, but never so much as we should like but I think we understood we could have all we wanted if they could have afforded it, a boy could drink a lot of it even if he wasn’t thirsty, so we had to watch the glass and call out if one was drinking too deep.

Then there was the naked “Ringwould Biscuit” for us children.  I don’t know who made them or what they were made of, they were round and very thick, about 4” [10cm] across with four knobs spaced equally on top.  It was impossible to get your teeth into them and a boy can usually [page 27] eat anything if at all hungry.  The only way was to grind your teeth around the edge to get a start and then keep grinding as you could never get it soft and it would last all the way home.  I have tried about 25 years ago to obtain one of these biscuits but was told the man who made them was dead, perhaps he managed to eat one, they were like cement and the hardest food I ever tasted.

If father was off duty on Sunday evening and it was wet, or during the Winter, the paraffin reading lamp with opaque shade (an improvement on the old clear glass bulbous chimney lamp) was after tea was cleared away placed in the table centre, the Family Bible was got off the sideboard and one of us selected to choose the Book we should read from, but if thought too advanced or unsuitable for so young a company Mother or Father would decide.  Father would read a verse, pass the book to Mother and in turn we all had a verse to read, some of the words were difficult but we got over that by spelling and rendering them in English as she is spoken.  We always sang “Grace” before and after every meal, and said our prayers at mother’s knee the finest being “God bless Father and make him better” which had originated when Father was lying grievously injured in St Thomas’s Hospital London, the result of being beaten up by a crowd in an attempted rescue of a prisoner in Bridge Street.  We always kissed our parents when going to bed and [page 28] my mother would always look for me to kiss her whenever she met me, expected it and I did not disappoint her.  Once on Point Duty (when she was over 70) at the top of Snargate Street, she came up to me and made folks stare as she kissed me and passed on.  She was a good mother and would do anything for our benefit.

I remember a very heavy snowfall when we were snowed in, it being level with the windows and only father could manage to get through with great difficulty, a gang of men were sent to cut paths sufficiently wide to deliver necessary goods in the Park the snow on the Gusham Road had drifted up over the banks from Croft Hill and completely blocked it, the surplus falling into the moat at Fort Burgoyne, on a small triangular piece of ground nearly past the Fort on the right hand side, it was piled so high that in the late summer there was still dirty snow, hard and granulated like ice, or coarse salt.

In the town were good class shops of different trades, but no Co-op.  The first of them that I remember was at the corner of Market Court, Market St but I don’t remember if that was the name traded under, I don’t think there was one at River then.  I should recognise the names of some of the first.  I think Fakely and Rayner were two.  The first Electric Light I remember was made to supply 4 or 5? large lamps outside Mitchells Bookshop, where is now the Soldiers Institute 157 Snargate St, the current [page 29] being made on the premises, they were I think the first to introduce Plimsolls then known as sandshoes and they distributed free puzzle cards with hidden frases [sic] or objects, very interesting and like later cigarette cards the boys used to change with others to get a variety.  The 6 ½d Bazaar was at the Wellington Hall and the proprietor a W Edwards, I don’t remember anything about W Squiers only the brass door sill at the entrance bearing his name, it was afterwards used as a Salvation Army Citadel. Waxworks, Glass-blowing, Cinema etc etc.  We used to go to the Apollonian Hall, just below the Clarendon Hotel and adjoining the Apollonian P. H. (next the corner opposite the Bethel and backing on to the Commercial Quay) to see the marionettes which I always enjoyed and thought most clever.  The Hall was a good size and had a gallery and was used for Dances, Private Theatricals, Catch Club and other society functions.  At the Grand Shaft Entrance was a sentry marking to & fro from the gates to the pathway in full uniform of one of the infantry regiments stationed in the Western Heights, with rifle and fixed bayonet until the evening when he would stand by his sentry base just inside the gates and after 9:30-10pm the gates would be padlocked, anyone seeking admission after that had to rattle the chain or gate give the password, go to the Guardroom and be seen by the Sergeant of the Guard.

We had very few amusements other than what we made ourselves [page 30], Marbles. Cricket. Cat and Stick (my favourite) played at the junction of Canons Gate Road and Castle Hill in the roadway, paper-chases etc etc and were happier and more contented than children of today, surfeited with toys not knowing the value of money and usually getting what they ask for.  If for some little service someone gave us a copper, half would go in the money box and feeling beyond the dreams of avarice the rest would be squandered in riotous living “Dosh and Scorched Peas” at Angel Baileys little shop in Woolcomber Lane and later St James’ Street near the Golden Cross P.H.  Angel was a little lovable woman, not too well blessed with this world’s goods, but she always had a smile and cheery welcome when we went to the shop.  It grieves me to have to confess that I as well as other boys would cheat if possible and purloin a few extra peas if they were left near the counter, she also sold fresh cheeses Junkets for 1/2d or 1 d.  She was I think one of the most good-natured contented women I have ever known, we never called her Miss Bailey only Angel, and she was one.

Pooles Myriorama or Diorama about once a year at the Town Hall was not as good as a magic lantern as the pictures shown were only a roll, rolled round & round with someone to explain the scenes shown as they passed.  Of course there were no movies then, but some Magic Lanterns [page 31] slides had an attachment with a handle to turn showing all different colours locking and interlocking in the screen which we thought a marvellous job, and a few nu manipulation could be made to resemble movement of the subject; but all very crude.  The Clarence Music Hall ” now the Theatre Royal” and Phoenix Music Hall “in Market Square” with variety shows, served beer to their patrons in their seats with tables for the pots during the show, but later served only from a bar direct to customers at the interval.  The Chairman sat at a table in front of the stage with a Gavel or Mallet & announced the turns.  We had travelling circuses, Trades Holiday when little work was done as nearly everyone was on holiday Trips to London.  Adults 3/6 returns and I have been for less.  Regatta Day was always a grand day and usually ended up with a Fireworks display near the Esplanade Hotel sometimes opposite the Sea Baths and on the Castle Jetty.  We used to annoy an old character living in Snargate Street just below the Wellington Hall who disliked boys looking in his shop windows, one window each side of the door, with small panes, and I think some were green bottle glass with centre blobs, they were slightly bowshape[?] There was a clock or watch repairs named Ditches, (called Davy[?] Ditches by us boys) and did not speak english [sic] very well, when he thought we [page 32] had stood there looking long enough “and we only stood there to annoy him” out he would come apparently quite cross saying:- Go Vay, Go Vay, If you Vant to buy a Vatch buy a vatch, if you don’t vant to buy a Vatch Go Cay, don’t Vipe your nose on my Vindow which of course only meant us calling again when we felt mischievous to have another warning.  There were several Breweries in the town, now there are none, three pawnshops, now none.  Governor[?] Lodging Houses 4d, 6d & 8d per night I remember were the Admiral P. H. Beach Street.  Eight Bells P. H. New Street. Nottingham Castle (sometimes the Glen P. H.) Adrian St.  Red Lion P. H. St James Street.  Lord Nelson P. H. St James Lane, Philips Model Lodging House, Adrian Street.  Wellands Model Lodging House, Mount Pleasant.  I think the only one left in Wellands, (now Coggins)

The old Wellington Bridge used to be swung by hand winches also the dock gates the bridge was replaced sometime about 1910-12 by a german [sic] firm and worked by power; they did their best to bomb it during 1914-18.

At Queen Victoria’s 1887 Jubilee all the school children in the town were to assemble in Pencester Road at different points which were exhibiting colours on scaffold poles, the same colours as issued as a bow to the different children to wear so as to be sure he were with the right school, the treat was to be [page 33] held in the Northfall Meadow.  It was a very hot day and Castle Hill very dry and dusty, no macademised or tarred roads then.  Our teacher Mr Nichols of Mowll & Mowll, Solicitors, Castle Street had thoughtfully brought a bag of Acid Drops and they were very much appreciated as we wound up the hill like a long snake in clouds of dust raised by those in front.  On arrival at the meadow we were freed from restraint & could enjoy Punch & Judy, Swing-boats, Skipping, Cricket etc. but until after tea it was too hot to do very much.  Northfall Meadow was always a free playground for Cricket etc., although after a time more restricted as the Firing Range of Rifle Butts were there, the Butts being at the bottom, back to St Margarets, later moved so as to back to the sea and close to the Cliff path.  At such times pedestrians had to wait when the Red flag was fling till given a safe passage before being allowed to proceed.  At the cliff end of the Meadow were high and overhanging cliffs with a footpath to Athol Terrace through a tunnel cut in the cliff and quite a good length.  There were two opening from the tunnel to the cliff face so as to look out over the sea but usually one did not linger to view the scene as it smelt so bad owing to the nuisances committed there.  At the lower exit from the tunnel was a rough chalk path, very narrow [page 34] and dangerous, in fact it was not recognised as a path that led back “E” and down to a small beach, known as the valley beach where there were no bathing restrictions but it was not used very much as under the cliff with seaweed and other litter washed up the flies were a pest and it was a relief to pull your shirt on again, the beach itself was very clean as it was covered right up to the cliffs at each high tide, beyond, towards St Margarets were old very heavy falls of cliff, great blocks of chalk just as they had fallen long ago; known as the first & second falls.  I[t] was quite a job over them and between the falls was a small amount of shingle.

Once I played the wag from Sunday School with another boy as he wanted to get some winkles and up in a corner against the cliff over the first fall I saw a heap of something which on closer examination I found to be the lower half of a man, very much decomposed.  We made a record run to Athol Terrace and told a boatman, and when I could not eat my tea my father asked me why, I had to tell him.  All he said was:- I wondered why your appetite was gone.  He frequently said to me:- I don’t grudge you what you eat But, but wherever do you put it.

At the lower end of the path from the tunnel at high water, the waves washed right up to and broke against the cliff, which was sheer just there and the water deep, but at low tide by a rough ladder fixed there we used to descend to the rocks, the water [page 35] receding for a long way out, and the rocks covered with bladder wort seaweed where we got crabs and other shell-fish, with prawns in the pools.  At Athol Terrace a revetment had been built to protect the road and property and is still there, and I believe it had to be paid for by the the residents to be kept in repair; the road opposite No. 1 in direct line about 15-18 ft wide to each Cliff Jetty being the boundary with a fence, rather stoutly built that we could climb over, to a set of widely spaced pieces of wood (secured to the piles that supported and kept the road up in position) that acted as a ladder to get down on the rocks at low water, all “E” of the jetty and the 15-18 ft road was filled in by Pearsons which could be proved if excavated.  I have heard Sir Westman Pearson claims a bit this side of that boundary and Dovorians it should not be lost sight of, that all the ground reclaimed lies to the “E” of the jetty and original roadway.  Don’t part with an inch, it’s Dover.

Beyond the Northfall Meadow in the “Convict Prison” built by Denne Walmer and was for the accommodation of convict labour to build the Admiralty Harbour but that scheme was later abandoned and it was built by paid labour by Pearson, Dorman & Long.  The “Warder Quarters” were in a more sheltered position at Broadleas Bottom on the old N. Margaret’s Road, but near the prison & I knew many of the warders and their children.  The Convicts used to arrive by train and were taken through the town in one of the Eriths Busses up Castle Hill [page 36] about 8 in a bus and accompanied by warders, the blinds being down when anyone approached, or when passing through the town.  I was often playing near the prison and saw many of them at work especially when they constructed the new road up to the main gate.  They had to pull their woollen caps down so as to hide heir face if civilians approached.  I remember when I first read from the board outside the Main Gate of the reward offered for the apprehension of an escaped convict what a lot of money it seemed but I don’t think all the time they were here anyone qualified for it.  I never heard of one attempting to escape so suppose they found the surroundings to their liking.  The fields all around from the top of Castle Hill was mostly arable land, except for the Parade Ground, not so much pasture or Golf links, the trenches or moats around the Castle “especially those facing the town” were a rabbit warren and literally hundreds could be seen at dusk or early morning running up and down the banks or in the road having a dust bath, and would eat the plants in any garden near, they got so thick the Officers of the R. G. A. used to have a shoot to thin them out, we had a notorious poacher who used to do himself well at the job, one night my mother when abed heard running down the hill and something came over our wall, in the morning she found it was a bundle of rabbits and thought the soldiers had chased the poacher and he had thrown them as he thought in the trees where ]he could find them later, but he didn’t [page 37] as they had cleared the trees and fallen in our yard.  We once had a cat that brought home rabbits but always with the head partly eaten.  There were no railing then around W. D.  land and we could go wherever we like and do as we liked, no one to interfere, cowslips & violets were very common and in the trench at Northfall Meadow just beyond where the entrance to the Castle has recently been uncovered we could always find Ox-slips, a kind of Primrose with a single stem branching out into several stems each with its own bloom like a primrose.  I never found any elsewhere, we could,  and did find a few white violets, but I know a patch in Bere Wood where I was sure to find some that were the sweetest smelling.  Most violets near the Castle are Dog Violets: odourless.

Castle Street has always seemed the place to look for Solicitors. The top corner No 2 “before demolition” being occupied by Lewis, then Aldington, Mowll & Mowll, Chilly[?], Lambert, Lewis & Pain and now a few more. Birds of a feather etc etc. Mr Martyn Mowll, a very nice and corpulent gentleman was one time my Sunday School Supt and the family have always been very much to the front in the parish affairs of St James’. Church Wardens or Vicars Warden, whatever happened in the parish nearly always included the name of Mowll , if you went the Church they took up the offering and ran their eye over you, they also ran the Ragged School in Ladywell. One thing has always puzzled me and that is:- they would support missionary and temperance work and other such things and then next morning go to Court to defend some transgressor against them or similar things and plead with such earnestness for leniency, or put the case in such a way that it was doubtful if any offence had been committed and you doubted your own judgment “surely the tongue is a mighty weapon”.  I have always not to pass an opinion on such matters so if there is anything you think I am sore about, forget it, and blame it to my biassed [sic] mind.  I am glad I am not a Solicitor.

I remember as a boy a big fire at Hills-Coachbuilder about No. 56 Castle Street, two doors down from “Fosters”, Chemists Shop.  The premises were gutted, with new carriages & showrooms destroyed, in fact the business was all gone.  It was early morning when I was awakened by a bugle call “Fire Alarm” from the Castle being sounded, and shortly after heard troops with appliances racing down the hill and shouting,  Falkes was on duty.  I did not wake the others but crept down the stairs until one cracked and Mother said, Who’s that.  I told her quietly so as not to wake the house.  I was only going to see what was the matter and she said: Go back to bed at once.  I made an excuse to go down and slipped out, when I got to the corner below No. 1, Victoria Park it looked as if the town was afire.  I got into Castle Street and stood on the forecourt of Thorps Grocers Shop.  And no. 47, now Brockmans.  The Dover Library was over Hills Showrooms and books and burned leaves [page 39] were flying about everywhere, there were not many overhead wires then but some were lying on the ground and getting in folks way.  Forsters shop was damaged mostly by water but the fire burned right through to Dolphin Lane, and the Gasometer in Fectors Place was thought to be going to explode.  I think they hurriedly drew off the gas as the fire there was specially fierce as the Oils, Turps & Paints caught fire.  Leney’s horses were luckily got out with sacks over their heads, but the old low tarred malthouses on malting floors with louvre board windows that stood at the corner of Dolphin Passage (next to the Granada Cinema, which was the cash-yard) was totally destroyed and later the new offices of A. Leney & Co. were erected there; (their offices previously had stood at the corner by the brook, “Down[?]”, in Dolphin Lane) these were damaged badly in this last war.  Hawkfield, Coal Merchant, is having offices erected there again.

As boys we used to try to open the louvre boards but the Maltsters who could hear what was going on would be ready for us with a hose and frequently got one in first.  I remember Alfred Leney Senior very well indeed and helped to carry him to his grave from Buckland House through the garden, across the Down into Buckland Church and then to the interment in the bank, there were eight men to carry the bier, which was of oak and very heavy, the handles were too wide apart [page 40] and the six bearers at the sides had no weight, so Walter Pascall at the feet and I at the head had to set it down, remove our black gloves (they had been provided) before we felt safe to complete the journey, even then it wanted some doing. Mr Lenny was quite a small man, but the weight and awkward handles of the bier and the coffin with possibly a metallic shell was too much to carry slowly for any great distance, if all eight had carried the right proportion it would have been different. I think I am the only one left of the eight, one having been chosen from each department. I was “Cellarage”, “Stock” and “Despatch”, doing all Fining of Ales and Private Trade, not Beer as that was fined after delivery by the drayman or Licensee. I remember the present Alfred Leney, “now nearing his nineties” when he got married and was driven from Deal or Walmer to Dover in a carriage & pair with his bride and receiving an ovation from the employees who were lined up on tiers of casks in the cask-yard, where the Granada is now, all the men wearing red woollen “Maltsters” caps of fine quality & new.

Almost two years ago when I met Mr Alfred as he is always known he could not remember me although I went to see him at his request a few years ago. He said his​ memory was getting bad and when I said I remember you getting married he doubted anyone remembered it until I described it how he and his wife arrive and the arrangements made to give him an ovation, then he said you have a most [page 41] wonderful memory and do come to see me I am in Dover twice a week and would like to have a good talk of old times; but I never have called and I expect he has forgotten.

At the installation of various and seemingly numerous Lord Wardens of the Cinque Ports during my life I think I have seen them all. At those times before motor-cars the processions were much slower and more picturesque, with the various Beadles & Mace-bearers “on foot sometimes” and open horses carriages for the representatives of the Ports and Liberties so that everyone had a good view between the Castle & the Bedenstone, Western Heights. It travelled via Castle St and the brewery employees were always on tiers of casks with a triumphant arch with greetings over the entrance to the courtyard, the men all wearing a red “Mallsters” stocking cap. Packhams stables at the bottom of Castle St used to supply riding Hacks[?] , he himself acting as riding master or tutor. I can see him now with his long legs encased in riding boots and looking very spindly, he kept a resident Ostler for many years, named Harvey (afterwards he was Horsekeeper to the Corporation of Exporation[?]Yard, Lower Handell[?] Road) and had many carriages for him.

On the “N” side of the Market Square where Lloyd’s Bank now stands, there used to be a Grocers Shop kept by C. Adams[?] and “Browns” Chemists shop (later removed to next St Mary’s Church, Cannon St) also the Garrick’s Head P. H. entrance up [page 42] two steps, and the Antwerp Hotel between Worsfold & Haywood’s present premises and Cannon Street that which was then a very narrow street. When these places were rebuilt a very large quantity of human remains were dug up. I thought they might have been re-interred before having been moved from elsewhere as they were lying anyhow, &[?] very very little soil between, just a jumble of bones, unless it was a prehistoric pest disposal area, the remains were taken away in tip-carts and I believe interred in Cowgate Cemetery, they might have been out forebears and their enemies killed in the battles of the dim past, but thee bones can be dug almost anywhere in this ancient town, I saw some this week (17/11/49) dug up in Church Street. As a boy I saw a skull that had been dug up in St James’ Street, and was left on a heap of dirt whilst the men had gone to dinner and took it home for mother to have a look at, I had to clear out in a hurry and return it to where I had found it. I didn’t hear the last of that for a long time.

The Antwerp Hotel had embossed glass in the door or windows in Cannon Street, showing Antwerp Cathedral. Cannon Street was so narrow that carts had to keep close to the paths to pass. The Hotel had a balcony with iron railings overlooking the Market on the first floor, where “Sequah” a vendor of Sequah Oil & Prairie Flower showered a hat full of money on the assembled crowds during [page 43] the reception held there after his daughter got married at New St James’ Church, a very smart affair.  Coach drawn (if I remember rightly) by six greys.  In Carson[?] Street was the Scotch Bakery Shop, Wrights, Boatmaker, and others including “Standens” with its colonnade with pillars on the pathway next to St Mary’s Church.  Opposite [?] of Market Street was Haits[?]Pawnbroker, Carrier & Welsh China & Crockery, and others, the Royal Oak Market, with main door in centre, windows each side with red blinds downstairs, and kept by Mr Philpott next door. The Jersey Snuff Bose[?] kept by Chidwick[?]Tobacconist, with the life size figure of a Scotchman in uniform of bright colours & kilt, facing towards Wellington P. H. from the corner, at this corner was an opening to  the Royal Oak yard, cobbled, where sales of sheep and other stock used to take place.

New Street was a notorious place, very rough at times, the whole neighbourhood had a bad name.  On the right hand side where is now Gosts[?] shop was the Saracens Head, later an early morning tea shop kept by Mr Lefeuse[?], near where is now the Prince of Orange H.H.[?] was a few steps down to a sunken passage (the bakehouse for the Scotch Bakery being there) then a few steps up into Queens Gardens & thence to Worthingtons Lane, it was only a lane wide enough to let one cart through at a time, it had two public houses, The “Why Not” & the Olive Branch and an entrance to the rear of Rubies’ Store [page 44] at the top left hand corner junction with York Street was Forresters Marine Store Dealer.  At the junction of York St & New Street was formerly the Black Ditch.

At the bottom of Military Hill (opposite Clouts Ironmonger) was a dairy kept by Mr Fry.  It was a strange looking place, as if it was a large house cut off from a row or terrace or houses and from there to the Red Cow P.H. were white painted wooden posts with looped chains between each, and setting back in a semi-circle an extent of small houses.  The cellar flap of the Red Cow being in the enclosed area.  Norris Coach Builders had their workshops in Priory Street, continuing in to Biggin Street, it is now the General Post Office.  The first G.P.O. I knew, is now the Sailors Bethel at the corner of Northampton Street adjoining the Clarendon P.H.  Then a new one was built on the site of the old Flying Horse P.H. now the Labour Exchange, King Street, and where the Dover-London Coach used to start from and finish, so I have been told but that’s a long time before my time, although I do remember the old Flying Horse Stables in Flying Horse Lane kept by a man named Hubbard.  At the corner opposite the Lord Nelson P. H. the cottage that was occupied by Mr Tait[?]”Shoemaker” was formerly the harness room for the coach house from the Flying Horse.

There used to be quite a lot of good class residents in the town.  Waterloo Crescent, Sea Front, East[?]Cliff, Victoria Park, [page 45] but the 1915-18 War shifted a lot away and very few returned.  I have a very nice walnut writing desk and pad both heavily ornamented with brass given me over 60 years ago by Canon Pushle[?]of St Mary’s Church, who lived at No. 2 Victoria Park, and which he had used for many years.  He always seemed to be very pleased to call me by name and I think had a liking for me, as did also some of the other residents who always looked to me for a salutation and smiled, & at times stopped to have a chat, in them days I was pleased to talk to them but I used to blush and get all hot and bothered at times.  I could mention the names of the occupiers of all 26 houses but that would be tedious unless you had known them.  We had Generals, Colonels, Captains, Majors, an Admiral, Solicitor Maiden Larkins?, an Harbour Engineer, Canon,  a Revd., etc., etc. mostly retired or independent, they entertained well and held frequent Balls hiring extra staff for the occasion, or loaning staff to help each other as it was risky with wealthy guests sometimes with expensive jewellery.  Some well known lodging house keepers were at times called in to act as Butlers and Waiters.  One whose family are still in the town was often on call and spent quite a lot of time at my house whilst waiting the time to arrive at the place at the time appointed.  He was a man who could be depended on and later went in for Municipal Honours.

In the summers Tennis Parties were frequent (there were three excellent grass courts) I was always in demand [page 46] and asked to try and get two nice [underlined] boys, one for each court to retrieve balls that went out of bounds, for which we usually received 1/6 [One shilling and Sixpence, 7 ½ p] each, a lot of money then, and after the games were over were called into the house to have a feed of strawberries and ice-cream, the latter being supplied by Iggleston [?] (not Graves then).  The ices were usually by this time very much liquefied but what could boys do with ices, no matter what their condition, waste not, want not was our Motto.

On Sunday mornings after Church the owners of houses in the mews used to visit them (they seldom had the carriages out on Sunday, unless or except in illness) and with their ladies and visitors would find the stalls & loadboxes neatly arranged with plaited straw & scarlet ribbon intertwined as an edging at the entrance to the stall, the house facing outward, they knew all about it and there was much laughing when holding a lump of sugar to it unless one knew the only way was to lay it on the outstretched palm of the hand, but strangers, especially ladies would drop it when the horse tried to pick it up with its lips.

As soon as they were gone, up came the straw edging, rolled up and kept for another day.  The coachman would call down at the house about 9:20am for orders for the day, and on the minute he would be there in his livery with silk hat, (often a Cockade at side) sometimes with a footman at his side who would attend to opening and closing the door, arranging the rugs etc [page 47] and then ride off with arms folded and sitting bolt upright, if a traction engine was met and the red flag man be engaged with another horse the footman would jump down and try to help in safely passing, if horses got real nervous the engine would have to stop and even then being well fed and full of oats and bran they would often be difficult to control.  It seems strange today with petrol smells, silent approach and sudden honks that horses have got to take no notice of them.

At Xmas time we were (my sisters and brothers) invited out to parties, one especially liked being by Mr Hilwell, No 1 Victoria Park (Hilwell & Harby) there were lots of nice things to eat to charm boys & girls, and useful presents from the bran-tub and Xmas Tree, we were always told by mother the last thing before going, to put on our best behaviour, but there was no restraint, we were for that day at least treated as equals and there was no snobbishness among the children.  I expect they had had a little lecture the same as we had had.  Mr Harby would have a magic lantern with comic slides and nearly always a policeman would be seen catching thieves etc.  Mr Baker of course.  Those occasions are now really very happy memories and I don’t think there are many such happenings today.  Mr Hilwell always seemed to be thinking as he walked and took no notice, or very little, of anything.  But Mrs Hilwell always seemed to turn up when least wanted.  I was rather a mischievous boy and as sure as I got interested in doing something I shouldn’t, she [page 48] would turn up.  I got a lovely bonfire going on the highway just above the mews, there was hardly any traffic about in the afternoon and turning round on hearing a slight noise there she was, just having turned the corner.  I had to jump on the fire to put it out and she told me what she thought in no uncertain way and then went and told father.  I deserved as I got, if not then, there were other times to be made up for.

Another thing I remember rather fondly was an occasion when the school children were given 1lb [1 pound weight, 450 grams approx] of cake each in a paper bag in the College Grounds.  There was something on to do with the Colonials, there was [sic] salutes of guns from I think ships and the saluting battery.  The procession of children were marched to Effingham Crescent & were marshalled in pairs inside the gate to receive the cake piled up on trestle tables, some of the boys who got in first hurriedly disposed of theirs and fell in again behind and got another lot, I don’t know how it ended.

The only public conveyance before the trams was a pair horse bus that plied between Buckland and the Pier.  I think it was a 3d [3 pence, about 1p] ride, but people then used to use their legs and I assure you were not so tired (or lazy) although they worked many of them 10-14 hours a day on a much less wage and a less varied diet.  I admit present day working class people have a much easier time, more wages and leisure but the home life as we knew it is almost gone;  [page 49] little respect paid to age or even to parents who are frequently spoken of as the Old Man and Old Woman, why has this disrespect crept in, and what sort of man is it that cannot call his mother “Mother”, I would feel ashamed but it seems selfishness and ego dominate everything in both sexes, let’s hope a change will come and we are more human again.

When bicycles first came on the streets they were a marvel, simply by sitting on a wheel you could travel several times faster than walking that is: if you could remain sitting on the wheel.  Penny-farthings were not common but there were some about (one huge wheel and a smaller one behind) with the rider perched precariously on top, if and when successfully mounted.  When you remember the old flint roads with potholes everywhere it was a very hazardous job to ride in safety, good job they [underlined] didn’t shy at traction engines, it was so very easy to run into a rut get off your balance and come over the handlebars, and to go uphill was almost an impossibility with such gearing, as the pedals were fixed to the hub and so it was direct.  My first cycle (secondhand) (I forget the make) was very heavy, very large oillamp, one spoon[?] brake; on front wheel, one spanner, narrow solid tyres, duent[?] Spokes as thick as a pencil, very heavy chain, coming down hill it was safest to put your foot on the front tyre as a brake.  Should the tyre become unstuck all the “Sam Prouds” glue was useless, it would hang back if going any speed so that every now and again you seemed to run over your own tyre [page 50] and wobbled, so like the “Boy Scout” it always meant “Be Prepared”.  It was hard work even to go to Shepherdswell and back.  There was a dealer named Bissenden in Cambridge Road, who hired out so-called safety bicycles at 4d half hour 6d hour only to be used by hirer.  Boys collected their coppers and one boy would fetch it to the sea front so that each could have a go, there were many falls and quarrels and frequently time was up before all had a ride, it was as difficult to get off, as on, and most times the boys rode to a lamppost and hung on to dismount, if the cycle got damaged it was left near Bissendens the boys hoping he would forget who hired it.

Hon[?] E Crandall[?] Coal store and stables in Cambridge Road kept a Raven running about the roadway it was said: – Company for the horses, and had one wing clipped so that it could not fly.  “If one died another would be obtained”.  It was a wicked looking bird with its bright shining eyes.  It may have been the boys own fault to begin with, but it made a dead set on errand boys who frequently threw their empty baskets at it and then had to go back and round via the sea front to get to their destination or retrieve the basket, but the Raven was cute, he was always ready to meet them whichever way they came.  I was never attacked but I kept my eye on him till well out of any possible rear attack.  He always ran sideways because of his clipped wing but was very quick in attack [page 51] or retreat.

Close by was a high-class photographers shop, Lambert & Weston, on one occasion I saw a little girl with her nurse looking at the photos and saw the wicked look in the birds eye as it ran towards them from the road but did not think it would attack them, it suddenly gave a vicious peck at the girl’s leg (bare above the white sock) her shrieking alarmed the nurse who was at a loss to understand what was the matter until told, but I never heard of anything being done in the matter.

All the Colliers of those days were sailing craft & the cargo discharged by hand, shovelled into baskets in the hold and then raised to and above a gangway and pushed along it hanging from a rope till over a tipcart backed on the quay to the vessel’s side and tipped into it, then conveyed to the coalyards, Geo Nocks at Union Road or railway, and so keep up the stocks to save further cartage.  It was almost a continuous stream of tipcarts from about 5:30am till 5:30pm through the main streets, as the roads were not macadamised the mud got worse and worse and sometimes the roads had to have men with big scrapers on a long handle to try and get rid of some in slub-carts.  There would be quite 100-150 carts engaged at the time, then they would be engaged in getting chalk from the chalk pits for ballast which they put aboard mostly at the Ballast Quay next the slipway [page 52] which would be a return cargo up North where it was used to make soda (so I was told).

There was originally a very fine fishing fleet of smacks here, and my grandfather, William Read was skipper of one of them.  I don’t know whether under Mr Drake of Pier Cottage, Sheet St and the Pavilion, or not, maybe by W Cullen, Cambridge Road but I do know he was employed by each at different times, he would also get transhipped at sea as overseas Pilot to the Elsinore and has been to the Baltic, but that was difficult to get passage back, he got plenty of money for his services in gold which he carried round his neck with a Caul (supposed to safeguard a sailor from drowning).  It did not please his employer when such things happened as the crew would then return to Post to arrange a skipper, and so lose money.

He was a very clever sea-farer and as a side line would do a bit of smuggling, a big bit sometimes.  He was once caught by the French and kept in a damp dungeon, well underground, for 6 months, and it was thought he was dead by his wife and family.  He got very good returns dodging and tricking the Preventative Men as the Customs Officers were called but he died a poor man in 1886 and his wife two days later, said to be of a broken heart, she sat with head bowed for those two days, they were together in the same conveyance [page 53] and buried together in St Mary’s Cemetery, Copt Hill.

I had one uncle on my mother’s side trained by his father and he was a clever seafarer and as quite a youngster had the repute of having brought the ship he was in (almost unaided) safely from the North Sea fishing grounds to Dover as the crew were all ill owing to some mysterious complaint that affected them all and rendered them helpless.  He or his father is said to have at one time rolled at night a cask of Wine or Brandy to his home in St James’s Lane.  I believe No 4 and on arrival found the belly of the cask too big to get indoors so sawed a piece out of the doorpost to get it in.  I think it must have been my grandfather as I remember him living in St James’s Lane.  Some of my forebears must have had a big streak of audacity and revelled in defying the Preventive [sic] Men, as my mother told me that when quite a girl she was sent with her pinafore containing a lot of movements of watches on which there was a heavy duty from Mr Drakes right past them and did not arouse any suspicion.

Dover was the best Port in this area and still is for a Fishing Fleet of small vessels, why can’t [?] some enterprising local people with vision resuscitate this valuable industry with all local shareholders, and make every employee on the smacks a gift of a few shares to hold all the while he continues in that employment [page 54] and to have the opportunity to buy shares the same as the General Public.  It would be a paying proposition.  The “Vaine” and the “Ridge” are good grounds as the French Trawlers know and why do they risk coming inside the 3 mile limit.  It pays.  There used to be good scallop grounds there, if there is now, the Frenchmen know it, I know scallops migrate but they can be found and at the prices of today it would be an Eldorado.

I have bought scallops at 4 a penny, large ones, from the dredgers that kept them in net bags of about 100 in the well of the vessel.  At the Standard P. H. on Commercial Quay was a one-armed landlady who would clean and wash a 1d [penny] worth, supply pepper and vinegar free, a 1d of bread and a pint of beer 2d a jolly good meal for 4d.  The scallops would be cut in four on the shell & eaten alive after being peppered, the roes being left till last, as a titbit.  If you’ve never tasted them this way you have missed a treat in life, they are a trifle on the sweet side, delicious.  I have also bought Oysters in the same way for 2/- [2 shillings, 10p] for 120, a long hundred, as fish is counted.  Bloaters taken direct from the hang, cured with Oak Dust at 2/6 [2 and 6, 12 1/2p] per long hundred 120, ¼d [a farthing] each and taste like ham.

The Lord Warden Hotel was in its heyday, passengers arriving here to cross and finding it rough would stay till better weather [page 55] no motors to run them to and fro to London in an hour or so, also the Kings Head, Dover Castle and Royal Hotels in Clarence Place all did well and accommodation at times was difficult to obtain.  When visitors looked out of the Lord Warden windows and saw seas sweeping over the top of the Pier those inside stayed put. On the “W” [West] side of the Pier were landing stages (2) used in the “E” [Easterly] gales, the pier itself was only about 30 ft wide.  Townsfolk enjoying the top promenade in fine weather could look at the contents of passengers luggage as Customs Officers searched for contraband.  I’m afraid we sometimes passed rude remarks as various articles of attire showed up, but generally the Customs men were very good.  It was a scandalous arrangement with no overhead cover even if it rained or the seas were coming over in spindrift especially if the owner felt he would be glad to die from sea-sickness.

There was a Military Prison on Archcliffe Fort Road and I had an uncle a Warder at Brixton [?] Prison who frequently came down to escort prisoners from here to there, he always tried to let us know when he was coming so that I could go on the rocks and get him a nice lot of limpets, he must have had a good digestion as they were tough as leather, well, more like sorbo  rubber.

Just over the bridge toward Aycliffe on the right hand side close to and adjoining the military ground was the “Ropework[s]” still standing but I [page 56] do not remember any rope being made there, perhaps that is because I lived in the opposite side of town.  It was the property of Cullen, ship builder.  On Archcliffe Fort Hill was Archcliffe Fort Brewery, later used as an Ice Factory and is now an Elementary School.  Previous to the Ice Factory the natural ice arrived in the Granville Dock as the cargo of a Norwegian sailing ship in the summer chartered to H. Smith, Fishmonger and Ice Merchant, 42 Townwall Street, the ice was grabbed up in blocks by a toothed grip and swung ashore to flat trollies and removed to the Ice Well in Elizabeth Street, on Townwall Street opposite the Robin Hood P. H. of course it was melting all the time in the hold and when exposed on the trolley’s [sic], [obscured] were continually at work by hand to keep the water down, chips of ice were sought by the children who collected it from the back of the trollies as they passed through the streets, sometimes under a blazing sun.  I wonder how much melted between the port it came from and the ice-well here, it was continually diminishing but it must have paid for itself or it would not have been shipped.  In sending it away to order to other towns it was put in a coating of sawdust in a sack and tied up very closely.

Quite big ships used to bring grain in bulk for Bradley Road [?] Custom House Quay who had an overhead gantry from the top floor of their [page 57] store to level with the dockside up which grain was drawn in sacks and run across and deposited on the top floor of the store.  The Oilmill was also in full swing and we boys used to get Locust Beans and other edibles, also plentiful was Linseed so Linseed Poultices were recommended for colds on the chest (I can smell them now) in competition with the old Russian Tallow on brown paper breastplates and applied as hot as possible (which stank worse I don’t know) but mother assured us it was the best thing and not to mind the smell.   Almost as good as a Brown Powder concealed in a spoonful of jam that we were at times treated to, the smell of the powder made one’s stomach revolt and start retching before taking the spoon, it was cruelty to healthy young animals and we knew we didn’t get spoonfuls of jam for nothing.  Then the old disgusting Brimstone and Treacle in tablespoonfuls, all gritty under the teeth.  I shall never forget it, and mother inviting us to have some more.  It’s a wonder I ever had treacle afterwards.  My thought was always that when I was a man I would like to live on Pickled Cabbage and Strawberry jam but its strange, I have never had any partiality for them since becoming an adult.

The Friendly Society Convalescent Home in Front St where is now a railway siding used to be nearly always full up with patients to be seen daily taking their walks round the docks and exploring the cliffs and hills although some preferred the Sea Front and the Beach.

Commercial Quay [page 58] was about three parts licensed houses, now demolished.  It seems strange to think of the streets that have disappeared in the Pier Area.  Oxenden St, Oxenden Lane, Paradise Street, Round Tower Street and Lane, Water Lane, Elizabeth St, Great St, part of Council House St, Swan Star St, Blenheim Square, Finnis Hill or Court, Hawkesbury St, Bulwark St.  There was a Baker in Oxenden St named Rolfe who with his two-wheeled cart used to go around the country and many many times I have seen him returning down Castle Hill after a long country round as late as 9:30pm and even later.  Where would you get a man today to make, bake and then take his wares for sale, he had no eight hour shifts and yet he always had a cheery greeting for us although we were no customers of his.  That was the type of man that made England, work never hurt anybody although I don’t believe in too much of it, today everyone wants short hours, big money, cheap food, all sorts of pleasure thinking they are the salt of the earth, but there will have to be a stocktaking and some retrenchment, it isn’t a bottomless purse, if we go on as present demanding more and more we shall find ourselves in Carey Street [synonym for bankruptcy].  Other countries look on awaiting what they hope will be our collapse so that like carrion they can pick us to pieces.  Unfortunately we have big mouthed jacks-in-office with parrot folk disseminating their idle talk to all and sundry (by their deeds ye shall know them).

Where Scotts [page 59] the Dyers is, next to the Grand Shaft, was one of Mr Higgs stores, he owned Lime Kilns Birchfields and I believe was a good builder, his own workmen said so.  The houses he built were nearly all four square, I believe one at the top of Park Avenue “Verulum” he built, and two semi-detatched at the corner of Priory Gate Road & Folkestone Road, also many others if there’s any doubt remove a brick and his name or initials will be found on it, he was a most conscientious tradesman and his work is a credit.

There was a fishmonger named Dringabier in business where the Snargate St Roman Catholic Church now stands, he had the best quality fish, poultry and game and supplied nearly all the Officers Messes.  At Xmas he would have a whole Deer hanging up outside his shop on show before being sold as venison.  The first fried fish shop to open in the town was nearly opposite the Clarendon P. H. and was run by a man named Rolfe who did all his own frying and had men assistants named Nevis[?] in white overalls as waiters, it was a deep shop, well lighted and it smell good, and it was, not much batter and cooked to a brown crispness.  I think they used Cotton-seed oil for frying and for 2 ½d you got a real good plateful with plenty of fish, the potatoes were boiling hot and tasted almost as good as the fish as they were cooked a golden brown, not like now when its half batter and seldom crisp; as boys if we could afford it we had another plateful and had a proper gorge, but one was really quite sufficient for any [page 60] ordinary person.  Then there was Courts, Wines & Spirit  Merchant with its huge cave cellarage, next to, and behind the Masonic Hall.  Courts pair horse vans would leave piled up with cases and baskets of Wines & Spirits for other towns and to be distributed in Kent.  It was an oldfashioned firm with good connections & doing a thriving business but for some reason was closed down and in the 1914-18 War.  The premises were used as a Naval Hostel and Canteen for men of the Channel Patrol from the Drifters, Trawlers and Minelayers and other craft in the Wellington Dock where they laid when in from sea for next repair, replenishing or refilling, one could walk at night across the dock by stepping from boat to boat at times.  It was a deathtrap and many who had spent the evening ashore were drowned as there were no lights allowed and the gangways to the quay did not always have the rope for holding on to just where they were expected to be, consequently many stepped as they thought on the gangway but stepped on air, a shout or two and if lucky the chap was got out, but many were lost.  It was said over 100.  I know a small child fell in the brook near the Brewery, Dolphin Lane and we could not find the body although a search was made to the sluices at the Town Mill, so the Harbour Board allowed the gates of the Dock to remain open as the tide fell and the childs body was recovered, also several of the RNVR [Royal Navy Volunteer Reserve] who had been reported as missing or deserters.  Then a fence was created with wires to prevent anyone falling over and all had to enter by the [page 61] gates provided, and in charge of a picket, even then some got drowned in trying to get aboard without passing through the gate because their vessels were not near the opening.

The “Clarence Music Hall” later the Hippodrome, Snargate St was a rough shop at times and father forbade us boys ever to go there, but I did go once to a Boxing Day Matinee as they had glaring posters in colour of someone who was fastened down to the railway track and a train approaching belching smoke and fire entitled:- The Midnight Mail.  My chum as well as I thought it a thrill and decided to go.  I think it cost 4d but we saw little of anything and soon left as soldiers began throwing pots about and we did not want to get mixed up in any trouble and so let our parents know we had been there.

At the Wellington Hall on one occasion there was a magic lantern show.  I forget if by payment or invitation, I think the latter and I think it was given by Major Scott of 9 Victoria Park who was very well known in the town and often did most extraordinary things, one of the slides was a Windmill and as it turned round and round it ground out sweets onto a tray which were brought round to us and we could have all we wanted while they lasted.

Of course we must not forget Mr Painters shop 173-174 Snargate St.  The toy shop where all were welcome and he would not let you go away empty handed or disappointed if he could help it, he kept a real good stock at prices from 1d upwards and had few competitors, certainly not Drapers as it [page 62] happens today.

At No. 176 was Gouldens Book Shop & Library (nearly opposite the stone outside the “Standard” Offices bearing the words “Here stood Snar-gate taken down <date>”).  The Library was well patronised by the gentry, although at Victoria Park cases of books from London were the usual source of reading, and the cases bore the name I think of “Mudio” [?] and were interchangeable before being returned.  I think it was a form of Book Club for good publications.  For comic papers there was only Ally Sloper and Punch and the only time I saw them was when I had my hair cut, costing 2d, Mens shaving 1d, and was always willing to miss my turn so as to have a good long look at the pictures, later came more interesting Boys Books.  “Deadwood Dick” banned by father, but I managed to get a secret reading at times it was so thrilling, then Frank Reade’s most wonderful exploits that we thought impossible or far fetched, but many of his ideas have been brought to fruition during the wars and perfected what was the ideas of Deadwood Dick, Buffalo Bill and Frank Reade’s hairraising ideas and exciting adventures.  It is difficult to realise today what wonderful chaps we thought them in their escapades.

Jarrett the Tailor had his shop opposite the Soldiers Home and was the contractor for all corporation uniforms if the successful contract was his, he made all the police uniforms locally, bets materials and trimmings, two fittings for every man and the uniform was a [page 63] credit to him, especially if you knew as I did the funny figures he had to clothe.  Sergt Barton for instance was so awfully fat that there was no sideways and he filled up the doorway to the Station, and there were other fat ones as well as the medium and skinny ones.  At that time nearly all policemen had fat and projecting abdomens and wore full beards, now they have neither beards or be [deliberate blank word here].

In Town Wall St was Walter Day Adams “Wine Lodge” and wholesale stores my brother Harry worked there about 65 years ago.  The pair horse vans would be loaded up overnight to leave early morning for Ramsgate.  I think “Waresfull” Wine & Spirit Merchant and other places; driven by G Church (who later on was employed at Rubies’ or Dick[esons]) that part of the business fell off somehow although the Bars are still Licensed for retail business, but Mackesons, Hythe have the rest of the premises as stores.

Opposite are two peculiar looking houses without windows, the reason being that owing to the window tax at one time in force (and now abolished)all the windows are at the back of the houses.  Now Camden Crescent is down you can see the front doors at the back.  The Round House as it was called opposite the Chandos P. H. because of its dome (disappeared in the war, owing to the shelling from Cap Griz-Nez) was always remarked on as a curiosity by visitors.  I have heard the dome was built as the owner wanted at least one room where the Devil could not hide [page 64] in a corner, of course in those days drink was stronger and perhaps some folks really felt the Devil was too close for comfort.  A parson at one time lived there.

The Grand Hotel was private houses one being occupied by Steriker Finnis, Timber Merchant, now Tolputts Biggin Street at back of Co-op.  The Tanyard at Stembrook was a flourishing business and employed many Dovorians.  Fell-mongering and Tanning but it closed down, another big loss to the town.  The Mill at Stembrook was run by Mummery but has finished.  Braces Mill (later Hogbins) is still standing in Mill Lane, St James Street but does nothing and is falling into a bad state of dilapidation.  What will revive our old industries, or start new ones.  Certainly not the Harbour Board they have practically ruined us already, or Rates at 22/- in the £ [£1.10 in the £1] (including Water Rate).

[Someone has underlined this paragraph in the manuscript, a bit of a rant] Our late Mayor, Cocky Goodfellow (as he was known as a boy and still is) has already done more to ruin Dover than anyone else and his arrogance and ego have become a byword, he was brought up in Woolcomber Lane, has always had a swelled head & by hanging on to the Socialists & Co-op has wormed himself into the position he held, better for Dover if he had never existed.  I don’t know of one redeeming feature in his career, if I did I would credit him with it.  Russel St Chapel at one time and now so I understand he is a big noise in the Nonconformist Church. If he [page 65] can hold that position his conscience must be quite dead, his party have just acquired the Girls Orphan Home 96-98 Folkestone Rd, and there is a lot of Sunday work going on, cutting down trees etc as other folks are going and coming to & from Church.  In his position he should not allow it, rather, six days shalt thou labour etc remember.  Its not to the credit of the Nonconformist Community that this work is allowed as it could be done on weekdays.

In Caroline Place was the Youths Institute and at the back of Tyglesden & Graves a large room for the St Martin’s Society, both these were run for the benefit of adolescents so that they could have clean healthy recreation especially during the winter and dark evenings, the latter was run by Mr Cowley Blackman (a bachelor) Grocer of Biggin St who was always interested in anything to do with St Martins and no doubt that is why it was so named.  He used to help with the Church Services at Guston and seemed very sincere in all he did, he got me when a boy and could sing Alto to take Anthem Parts at Curch Festivals if I could be spared from St Mary’s in the Castle or New St James.

The Granville Gardens next to No 1 Waterloo Crescent were surrounded by a high iron fence and inside that a high hedge and could not be seen into from outside the walks round and about the Bandeland were twisting and had high hedges with occasional seats for four or six set well back [page 66] into it and screening them from the wind, it was very comfortable and nice for a certain amount of privacy and was appreciated by courting couples.  Opposite on the beach during the season was the Ladies Bathing Machines on wheels that were lowered into the sea as required on their broad wooden tyred wheels 8-10” [inches, 25cm] wide to a short distance into the water, access was obtained by walking a plank fitted to reach from the beach to the doors about 4ft [feet, 1.2m] high over the beach, there being two compartments and before the occupants could get out on to the steps to reach the water they had to don a regulation dress provided so as to suit Mrs Grundy.  They nearly all looked alike if on was lucky enough to see them but more often than not they hung on to a suspended overhead rope and keeping their feet well up the steps bobbed up and down without letting go of the rope.  A fixed board screened the steps either side so that those sitting on the beach could not see them.  The dress was thoroughly efficient as it covered them up very well, there was nothing to indicate if they were bandy or knock-kneed and from the loose fitting costume on could not tell 16 from 60 although they all squeaked as the water surged up and partly enveloped them.  I don’t remember ever having seen one swimming, the dress was [page 67] too cumbersome and dangerous, not like now when women in scanty but smart costumes can enter for long distance races and compete on a level with men.

On the Sea Front were to be found Bath chairs at appointed places, some sprung on leather straps, others less smart, so that invalids or others could employ them for and by the hour to be taken where they wanted to go, the man attendant pulling by a long handle with a T piece attachment to pull on, or by putting it in the small of his back [to] retard its progress down hill.  I have often got behind unbeknown at the time to the man in front until I started to push to help him get someone up to Victoria Park.

Broughams, Victorias, Pony Chaise, Goat Chaise, Char-a-bancs etc would all be seen waiting for customers at the different Cab Ranks close to the sea-front railings.  The Char-a-bancs owned by Fisty Miller & G Tyler used for a long time to stand around the Monument, which had a square of heavy railings with a big gilt ball at each corner pillar (that square much reduced in size has been altered to circular during the War).  Some of them with 2, 3 or 4 horses attached and boards giving their fare, route, and time of departure, fare actually 1/6 [one and six, a shilling and 6 pence, 7½p) for an afternoon drive of 2½ -3½ hours into the country.  Of course there was no motor traffic and in looking back seeing the large amount of trade being done then in the town its incredible to think how we traded at all.

[page 68] The Docks and Quays were piled high with stacks of assorted lengths of timber (brought in by ships from the Baltic etc) or loaded on horse-drawn timber tugs or jigger wheels to be taken to the timber yards in Pencester Road now Pencester Gardens for Sir William Crandall or Finnies at the rear of the Co-op (Now Talputts [?]) or to the Railway Station to be taken away to other towns.  All coal brought in in sailing vessels and discharged by manual labour in huge baskets filled in the hold, raised by counter-balance and sometimes the added weight of the men, or by winch by man labour, men running the plank from ship to shore to push and tip the coal into tip-carts for Mills, Breweries, Limekilns, Brick-fields, Malthouses etc some of the Mills had water auxiliary power.  The Fishing Industry, Cross-channel Boats, Packet Yard, Customs, Continental Sheds and Locomotive Sheds, South Earham [?] & London, Chatham and Dover Railways  all in full employment without the hustle & bustle of motor-traffic and power.  We got there just the same, everyone was more contented money was small but there was not that extravagant way of of earning £1 and spending £1-1-0 [One pound 1 shilling and 0 pence].

Pictures & Dances may be quite alright within reason but not to make them a religion and never miss a service.  When the telephone first came to the town it was the old “Bell” or Edison Bell Co, they had a store for [page 69] many years in Laureston Place and their exchange was behind “Harts” Electrics Shop, Waterloo House, Market St on the top floors, now the National Provincial Bank.  One of the oldest employees named Staines was transferred when the GPO [General Post Office] took over, he was a great friend of mine over all the years and died a year or two ago in retirement.

The Waterworks which is one of the finest legacies we could have had from our forebears has never failed.  Mr Thomas was I think the first Surveyor I knew to live at Castle Knoll although I have known all his successors, Mr Boulton Smith being the last to reside there but the house was shook up during the War. (it was just outside his front door that at night during the evacuation from Dunkerque (Dunkirk) when I was on duty that a shell fired during a raid burst just above me, stripped a Laburnum tree and the blast shook me up so that I found four days later that I had crepitus  from fractured ribs, but as there was no one to be obtained for a relief I was strapped up and carried on, unfortunately I never reported sick & although my lungs were seriously damaged (as later found out by XRays) I was not eligible for consideration in any shape or form I am still very short-winded after any exertion and apt to take cold easily).  The old original beam engine is still a stand-by [page 70] since one of the new pumps was installed, but when the other one is put in I expect the old one will be taken down and put in the Museum its pretty ancient now.

In what is now known as the covered market was a home killed meat market with large scales for use and a scale of prices for their use, also the charges for different stalls and gear.  There were no foreign meat shops then.  Almost every Saturday morning I was sent to fetch hand made sausages or sausage meat (ordered the previous Saturday) from a Mr Ayers who came in from the country, lovely sausages seasoned with Sage, all hand chopped and all meat, shall never see or taste the like again.  At times if lucky we also got a set of pigs chitlings, we called them pigs innards, they had of course been cleaned but mother always turned them inside out and cleaned them again before cooking they were lovely, both cap and plaits [?].  Once as I took a set home in a bucket I saw two men with the catch-pit open at the bottom of the hill to remove the gravel, so put my bucket down and watched operations the men being down in the pit, presently one said something to the other and both stood up and sniffed and one said:- Whats in that bucket and when I replied “Innards” they both soon told me to clear out, they thought [page 71] it was rotten and said so with a few adjectives.

Castlemount was then kept by a Mr Chignall as a school and was known as Chignall Gardens.  At school holiday times if my father was not on Night Duty he would sleep there owing to the staff being nervous.  We were the only outsiders to have a key of the gates, it being hung up handy, indoors, in case of being required and for our use if going through to Leybourne Terrace or Charlton area Via Taswell Hill, but we had to be sure not to lose the key.  I remember being sent with my brother Harry to Buckland House with a broomstick to carry a goose home which was suspended on the pole resting on our shoulders with its head tied up so as not to drag.  Owing to the mysterious loss of geese, ducks and hens without any trace of where they had gone lasting over a considerable period it was decided to watch & so if possible clean up the mystery from inside Buckland House Grounds.  My father was able to climb in after the lights were out and thought maybe he would find or see a Fox, but as dawn broke he saw a man carrying a dead goose, it turned out to be an employee, either gardener, builder or some sort of management who had a grievance or fancied grievance and showed his resentment in this way, the birds being all buried in a rubbish heap well [page 72] away from the house, father arrested him and was shown where they were hidden.  I don’t know what happened to him but father was given the one the man was carrying.  I remember on the way home passing a row of houses in course of erection just built up to ground level.  Could it have been Harold Terrace?  I think so, or Leybourne Rd.

Another time on an Easter Monday “Ally Sloper” had an advertising stunt on the hill this side of Union Road Gas Works, near Diggles Tower.  A big balloon with the words Ally Sloper in big letters around the middle of it.  It was  captive and was to shower thousands of copies when at its highest point.  It was a bit windy and my brother & I were asked to help hold it steady while it was being filled, by holding on to the ground rope, it pulled and tugged in the wind swaying all over the place during inflation till with increasing buoyancy it came at us sideways and flattened us out, as soon as it lifted sufficiently and rolled we both cleared out, the bundles were afterwards let fall some without being untied.  I don’t know what happened then but no one was injured so I suppose it was deflated safely.

At the back of the Wellington P. H. Biggin St I remember attending a Circus (I think it was Ginnells) where there were 3-4 elephants, although young I wondered what would [page 73] happen if anything went wrong because I thought the stairs to the approach were not strongly enough built, what remains clearest in my mind was a clown and seeing the elephants sit down on tubs.  It seemed such a strange place to have a circus.  The entrance was from the side of the Wellington P.H.

It used to be interesting at Michaelmas Time to see the farm employees for their annual holiday come in and make it their day.  Any changes of service would be arranged for them and farm waggons could be seen loaded with furniture and household effects coming from or going to another situation, others who were staying on bought a new Whip, Books, Clothing, Whelks and Winkles and of course some Beer 2d Pint but they had little to spend on riotous living when many only got £10-12 per annum live in.  On occasions when they had to come in during the year with corn etc they usually had a sub and that was deducted from their pay.  Sometimes they got drunk and had to be locked up charged with being Drunk in Charge of a horse and cart, for their own and everyone else’s safety and the farmer notified so as to fetch the horses and later bail the men out, he would pay the fine and stop it from the clearance at Michaelmas, so it was only suspended payment for them.  Some masters would overlook it as they usually understood the temptations they had, and after all what was a day out if you had no [page 74] enjoyment out of it.  I think if the horses had been left alone they would have got back safely but the risk of allowing that was too great for everybody.  Better safe than sorry.

In the Admiralty Pier Turret there is a 81 ton gun (I have been told two of them) when that used to be fired the Town Crier would go around and warn householders to keep their windows open to avoid breakage by concussion, it was not fired very frequently and then I understand only at half or quarter charge.

The Town Crier in his uniform and Bell which he rang to call people to their doors shouted out “Oyez, Oyez, Oyez” to inform them of what was going to happen.  At other times he would announce such things as the water being turned off or to advertise a “Sale”, he was allowed to do this at the end of any announcement something on these lines “Do you know my dear Mr So-and-so has a sale on, lovely sheeting or shirtings, socks with close[?], fevrers[?] of laces, you never saw such a show and all so reasonable, I shall be there so don’t pass without speaking.  Mrs – is sure to be there, trust her, as her hat begins to be familiar, you know don’t you there’s sure to be a big crowd.  Goodbye”. He was usually a bit of a wit and of course got paid for the advert.

When very young I used to go up the Grand Shaft, via Mr Martin’s steps.   In The South Front Married Quarters where my eldest sister Mary was in Quarters, she [page 75] having married Robert Hearst, Colour Sergeant of the Royal Irish Rifles, after a year or two the Sergeant was shifted to Guernsey, Channel Islands.  They embarked from the Admiralty Pier (which was then only about 30ft wide and finished at the Turret) on the well known troopship “Assistance”.  My mother sent me up on the Castle steps to wave a handkerchief as the ship cast off as I did so want her to know I was sorry she was going away but of course at that distance she would not see me, although the trees were not such a screen as now, the Regiment later went to Mulligan, Ireland and from there she wrote asking if she could come home as she felt so ill, Mother wrote to put it off a bit as Harry was only just getting over an illness, then a telegram arrived to say she was on her way, she arrived a day or two later and looked very ill and was dead in eight days, she was beyond help on arrival with a growth on the Liver.

It was the only time I saw my father shed a tear, my mother brought up her three little tots for a time, then my sister Lydia gave up her young man on purpose to mother the children and although at that time it was illegal to marry a deceased sister’s husband she did so and about eleven months later she died in her confinement in London, mother bringing the baby about two days old to Dover with the other three and had them for some years.  What a mother we had.

At times we had boiled suet pudding (a good filler) and treacle, [page 76] it was the real old black treacle, no golden syrup then.  We got it from Sugar Briggs shop, Trevanion St (he was the verger at New St James’ Church) we had to take a basin to put it in which was put on the scales and weighed and then the treacle contained in a large container above the scales with a close fitting flat tap was turned on , it ran out like tar and when the correct weight was shown was suddenly turned off.  My brother carrying a basin home up Hubert Passage lifted the paper to put his finger in just as a boy threw a dry turf over the wall from the first meadow at the top of Hubert Passage, he did not want any pudding in case of its being guilty but the turf had been allowed to drain off its surplus before being taken home and it was too black to see if there was any sediment, it all passed off alright.

I have seen quite large Eels in the Dour at Dieu House Lane and squirrels leaping and running about in the trees that did stand overhanging the footbridge.  Even the brook in Dolphin Lane next Limeys Brewery was alive with leeches but chemicals from the Paper Mills have killed them all off from Buckland downwards.  It’s a wonder the White Swans, and Black Australian Swans with their red beaks that looked so handsome remained as long as they did.  At Willow [page 77] Walks (at the back of Buckland Avenue) a backwater from the dam of the brook above Mannering’s Mill we used to take our jampots like many other children to catch Minnows but that has all been filled in and built on now.

Cherry Tree Lane (now Avenue) was a very narrow rough surfaced road and few buildings if any.  I think the only one “Barton Cottage” now numbered 21.  Beaconsfield Road extended from London Rd to the postbridge beside Sedgemead House, then over the bridge to Barton Path and old Charlton Church (now pulled down) and where we used to see the Clergy and Choir in surplices and cassocks in procession from the Church to go in a side entrance carrying banners and different things, as a spectacle it looked very pretty but I was brought up a low church Protestant, (not with any of the Catholicism as it unfortunately is today with its Rites & Practices) which I think to attend is hypocritical so would have nothing to do with it.  A good Catholic is a sincere person and so I hope is a good Protestant but why practise Catholicism in the Protestant Church.  I don’t hold with gaily painted effigies and other pagan rites.  We all think we’re right, let us continue so and have no bitterness, if a man will only think for himself he’ll know what is right.

The footbridge when removed for the road bridge to be built to carry the road to the newly developed districts in the Barton Rd [page 78] area was put in position across the Dour just over the bridge beyond Mannerings Mill, Lower Road, River and I believe it is still there.  There was in those days a lot of pilfering on the railways, what could be expected when goods porters were paid 16/- [16 shillings, 80p] per week, less 3d for a sickness benefit and I have known married men with families at that rate, but you could have a pass free anywhere, now when they are getting big money they still have that privilege but others have to pay treble the former charges, how nicely balanced it all is.  If all had to pay the same it would mean more revenue and so reduce the costs all round, or if as the C[?] [abbreviation is unclear] used to do they ran excursions at times at a very cheap rate and well advertised them the trains could be run full to capacity and it would be a good bit of business as well as letting the shareholders (us) have a little benefit of some sort.  I have been to Brighton return for 5/- [shillings, 25p] on several occasions.  I’m not saying this as if its sour grapes to me.  It’s the right thing to do.

The first foreign meat shop was I think “Hogbins” next Biggin Court, Biggin St and he soon made a good business of it although the genuine butcher could not say anything good about it saying there was no goodness in frozen meat, but later when  company shops such as Fletchers Nelsons, Argentine etc opened up of course they took most of [page 79] the trade.  Meat was very cheap.  In Priory Street I could get a good leg of mutton for 2/6 [“two and six”, two shillings and sixpence, 12½p] or less, real good stuff, and on Saturday evenings if sales hung up, there being no refrigerators or ice-boxes it was sold off at Dutch Auction for as low as 1d per lb [a penny a pound, approx. 1/2p per ½ kilo] at the various shops and I have seen when no one would pay even that joints flung out to folks looking on gratis.  I have seen 30lb of mixed:- Beef, Lamb, Veal, Mutton & Pork sold for 2/6.

There were no rubber soles or heels to boots but iron heel and toe tips and hobnails, heavy as lead.  Elastic side boots were common for women and some men, when “Oxford shoes”, or low shoes came in they were known as High-lows and soon became popular, now it is the exception to see mens boots for sale unless for a special purpose.  Boys when leaving school were often apprenticed if their parents could afford to keep them for nothing for a few years but it was a strain on the housekeeping to keep a growing boy, nearly a man clothed and shod with a little in his pocket and a void inside that could digest and enjoy huge quantities of food.  I only hope if they were ever in the position to show their thanks in some tangible manner they did so, but of course good parents did not count the cost, their recompense would be the satisfaction of knowing they had made a success of life at [page 80] the trades or callings they had started on.

At intervals notices for the sale of East Army Horses would be posted up on the Hoardings and advertised to be held in the Market Square, usually at 11am.  The horses would be bought in from Shorncliffe or Canterbury or wherever there were cavalry and the low horse copers and dealers of this area of Kent were always strongly in evidence as well as Gipsies or Pikeys waiting for the sale to start.  After a preliminary opening by the Auctioneer as to conditions of sale etc a lot would be shown and the dealers ask for it to be trotted up and down to see its paces, then some uncomplimentary remarks about the horse would be made and I never heard any good ones, and when asked to make a bid a ridiculous one would be made say:- £1 a leg and after a lot of banter it would get knocked down to one of the crew at a very low price, and so it would go on till all were disposed of.   I never saw any taken back again so between them they had a good time, especially when one heard what the Govt [Government] were paying for horses, they were not all vicious or unfit, if they were they should have appointed another buyer.

Most working class families owned an iron-foot for fathers to use in repairing footwear or replacing tips on hobnails, it saved a lot.  I can hear my father [page 81] saying, lets look at your boots son, and then say take them off, get out my toolbox bring in the foot and I’ll do them before going on duty.  I still have his iron-foot that he had when apprenticed as a boy at his home in “Street”, Nr Glastonbury, Somerset, it is a wrought iron foot set in a wooden post and has done good service in my family, as he joined the Army after running away from his apprenticeship and fought in the 1857 War in China [Second Opium War] and at the taking of the Taku Forts [Probably August 21 1860] it must be well over 100 years old. I don’t suppose I shall use it again.  It was useful when my family were young and my wages 24/4½ week [24 shillings and 4 ½ pence, about £1.22] as a Dover Police Constable in 1900, during the Boer War and although a novice at that job it did save my pocket quite a lot.

In butchers shops you could see hanging up Haslets  consisting of pigs or sheeps lungs, wind-pipes and other offals which would be made into Haslet Pie with plenty of seasoning but I didn’t want any, we very seldom had one, then some folks would buy a half or whole bullocks head & there was quite a lot of meat on the cheek but we never had any, half a pigs head we did sometimes have but I had no stomach even if hungry for shout, ears and I didn’t like the look of the teeth, a brawn mate from it I could not eat altho I have bought a hot faggot and eaten it, goodness knows what was [page 82] in it but it looked nice and was well seasoned.  I expect that was only to disguise it.